Shadow Lake Family-friendly Backcountry Ski Lodge

Shadow Lake is one of the most beautiful destinations in backcountry Banff National Park that is easily reached year round on the Redearth Creek Trail.  We set out a couple weeks ago to see just how "easy" it would be to get to this magical spot with a six year old child in winter.

Beautiful Shadow Lake, Backcountry Banff National Park

The photo above shows why we wanted to get here as a family for a weekend.  Scenery like this isn't found on any old  stroll or ski trip.  BUT, we worked our butts off to get these views.

Note: this story is out of date. Enjoy the photos, but please visit my new and updated stories below:

Read: Ski, Hike, or Bike into Shadow Lake Backcountry Lodge

Read: Backcountry Glamping at Shadow Lake Lodge

Read: Autumn Larch Hiking at Shadow Lake Lodge

Read: The Ultimate Group Backcountry Ski Weekend at Shadow Lake Lodge

It took us over 5 hours to get to this destination on foot

The Journey to Shadow Lake

I've written a few stories now on the theme of "raising tough kids" and this trip definitely falls under the category of pushing children to new limits, out of their comfort zones, and setting out to see just how far they can go.

In order to get to Shadow Lake, and to the backcountry lodge where we'd spend the weekend, we first had to ski or hike 14 km (9 miles) on a moderate trail abundant in big hills.   And while I'm sure many older kids could do this, my son had never skied more than 7 km.  And he's only 6 years old.

Hiking up the Redearth Creek Trail to Shadow Lake

How we managed to get to Shadow Lake:

1. We hiked the first part of the Redearth Creek Trail that was the steepest while carrying skis and pulling ski boots in a sled (next time we'd carry all extra boots as the sled was a huge pain in the butt to pull.) We were also carrying snowshoes that we could use on our free day at the lodge for exploring around the lake.
   
   
2. We skied the next 8 km while pulling our son with a tow rope. 
   
   
3. Finally, we hiked the last 3 km from the junction to Shadow Lake Lodge at the end of the Redearth Creek Trail.  This section was not track set or even skier tracked and started off with a very steep icy hill.  We figured we might as well just switch back into hiking mode and allow our son to use different muscles for a bit.

Skiing along the Redearth Creek Trail en route to Shadow Lake

How other families get to Shadow Lake:

There are three basic options:  Ski, hike, or pull the kids in a chariot or pulk sled.  You do what works best for your family.  And in summer you can bike if the children are strong enough to do the hills on the way in.  We used our son's balance bike last September when we went in and he had a super fun ride out.

Nearing Shadow Lake Lodge after a very long ski and hike

On the way out from Shadow Lake, we basically repeated our steps from the way in.  We walked the top part, skied the middle, and walked the bottom part again.  Our son skied more on his own on the way out but he was still towed a lot too.  For the biggest hills, he had to ski between his dad's legs since he hasn't quite figured out how to do a snow plough on cross country skis yet.

Skiing around Shadow Lake on our free day at the lodge

Skiing out from Shadow Lake Lodge

Staying Overnight at Shadow Lake Lodge as a Family

I could easily post a dozen gorgeous photos of Shadow Lake and leave it at that.  However, there's more to Shadow Lake Lodge than scenery.


BIG Reasons for Families to LOVE Shadow Lake Lodge

Individual cabins - Each couple or family gets their own cabin to sleep in.  No other backcountry ski lodge offers this unless you pay extra (a lot extra.)  At Shadow Lake though, everybody gets a cabin rather than sharing a crowded lodge.

Cabins at Shadow Lake Lodge

Decadent food - The food at Shadow Lake Lodge is great (pork tenderloin, chicken, fresh vegetables, hearty soups, and breakfasts so big you'll be full most of the day.) 

Note the food may feel a bit "fancy" for some kids, so I would advise packing some emergency staples (even a small jar of PB and a package of wraps or bagels) if you have a picky eater. 

You can also make dietary requests when you book your stay, so don't feel shy to request basic chicken and beef or pork if you feel your child would reject seafood or other kinds of meat.

The Kitchen and the Fireside Cabins

The staff like kids - This is important.  You want kitchen staff that will help and go out of their way to make your child's stay happy.  At Shadow Lake, our son was able to get cookies any time he wanted instead of the more adult-focused desserts and he was always given a fresh glass of lemonade or juice.

We were also placed at a table with another family for the communal meals which we appreciated.

Little boys need lots of cookies after playing in the snow

Heated bathrooms with showers - I know it's backcountry and all but there's some comfort in knowing there is running water and showers - just in case. Evening bathroom runs are also more pleasant when the bathrooms have heat and lights.

The heated washrooms are right beside the kitchen cabin

The trail is well maintained and easy to follow - You'd be seriously hard pressed to get lost going into Shadow Lake Lodge.  It would be quite the challenge to get off the main snowmobile tracked trail.

I dare you to get lost on this well maintained trail

There's a lot of easy exploring to do from the lodge - We stayed at another backcountry ski lodge years ago as a family that was super easy to get to, but there was nothing to do once we arrived at the lodge.  No trails to explore, nowhere to really go.  

At Shadow Lake Lodge, it's a short hike or ski to the lake, and then you can cross the length of the lake in a very easy family-friendly outing. We brought snowshoes and winter boots with us, but it's an easy ski across the lake.

When we finished snowshoeing on the lake we came back to the lodge, played in the meadow and enjoyed afternoon tea.

Hiking along the creek from Shadow Lake Lodge

Taking a rest on the summer bridge at Shadow Lake

The lodge has snowshoes for guests to borrow - Families will want to bring small snowshoes for the kids but the lodge has a dozen or so pairs of adult snowshoes so that you can hike around on your rest day.  We appreciated this and it saved us bringing in three pairs of snowshoes.  Just remember to bring winter boots with you.

Snowshoeing across Shadow Lake, Banff National Park

Not many kids get to snowshoe in paradise like this

Daddy tracks, Mommy tracks, and Baby tracks

Want to visit Shadow Lake or stay at Shadow Lake Lodge?

All information on Shadow Lake Lodge can be found on their website at Shadow Lake Lodge.  

To be inspired for summer season at Shadow Lake, read the story I wrote here:  Backcountry Glamping at Shadow Lake Lodge

And read about autumn larch hiking here: Autumn Larch Hiking at Shadow Lake Backcountry Lodge.

Special thanks to Shadow Lake Lodge for supporting and arranging our stay at this amazing lodge.

Shadow Lake, the most beautiful lake in backcountry Banff

How to Get the Best Campsite this Summer

The first long weekend of the camping season is fast approaching and provincial park campgrounds in Alberta are already taking reservations. Now is the time to grab your calendar and start that summer planning you’ve been putting off. Follow these tips below and you’ll be camping in some of the best sites this summer.

Ten tips to get the best campsite this summer

1. Book an entire campground or group use area

Many provincial parks in Alberta offer group camping and you’ll only need to find a group of five families for most of the campgrounds.  A lot of these group use areas are completely private and set apart from other campgrounds in the park. (Read: private campground for you and your best friends!)

Big Tip:  Try this for a long weekend and avoid the madness in the normal campground. Can’t get the group site you want? Try booking a double site, available at many campgrounds. This still allows you to share a large communal site with one to two other families. 

Read more about group camping here on the Alberta Parks Site.

Know that the "units" refers to the number of tents or trailers you can have for this site. Each campground will also indicate the minimum number of units you'll need to pay for. Most are just 5, but some are 10. (And while you can certainly have less than that number, you'll just be paying for that many families - even if you show up with less.)

Private  Group Campground at Twin Lakes, Alberta

2. Know when to camp

The quietest times to camp are in the spring and the fall. Campsites will also be quieter mid-week.

And something we've noticed: nobody goes camping the weekend before or after the May long weekend! These are golden weekends for solitude.

The busiest times to camp are long weekends and pretty much anytime the kids are on summer vacation.  

Best Tips: If you must camp on a long weekend, hike or paddle into a backcountry campground or hut, try walk-in camping, or book a group site away from regular campsites.

Read about backcountry cabins and huts here. 

Camping is very peaceful when you choose spring or fall weekends 

3. Know how to choose a quiet campsite

Does loud music bother you when camping? Hate generators?  Love solitude?

Check out these tips for choosing a quiet campsite:

• Camp in the National Parks.  These campgrounds are always quieter than provincial park campgrounds
  
  
• Choose a site in a power loop of the campground (even if you are tenting.)   Nobody will need to run a generator to power their microwave or coffee maker.
  
  
• Choose a walk-in site if you want a real taste of natural camping without being walled in by large RVs.
  
  
• Don’t camp next to playgrounds, bathrooms, day use areas or busy pathways unless you are ok with people running through and around your site well past dark.
  
  

Peaceful camping along the Bow River in Bow Valley Provincial Park

4. Choose campgrounds with amenities that are important to you

Depending on your interests or camping style, you’ll want to look for campgrounds that have bike paths, hiking trails, a beach, a playground or bathrooms with showers and electricity.  

Big Tip:  If camping in a national park, make sure you reserve a campsite with a fire pit.  Not all sites have one!  

Campgrounds with a beach are always a win with kids

5. Know what you’re booking

Look at campground maps and photos of the site you want to reserve before you make your booking.  Both Alberta Parks and Parks Canada have photos of the site you’ll be reserving so you can take a peak for “dangers signs.” 

Possible dangers:

• bathrooms right beside or behind your site
  
  
• a public pathway or hiking trail behind your site
  
  
• busy roads or highways nearby
  
  
• train tracks!! - trust me, watch for this one if you're tenting! (google maps will help here)
  
  
• group use areas or double sites near your campsite (they are often quite noisy)
  
  
• communal fire pits nearby
  
  
• day use areas, a beach, or a playground in the proximity of your site (honestly, they are a double edged sword. Great for the kids, but very noisy.)
  

These factors above will all decrease the amount of privacy you have and could make your site noisy.

You'll have happy kids if you camp beside the playground (you won't have solitude)

6. Know your reservation dates! 

Provincial campground sites can be booked 90 days in advance of your first night of camping.  Mark your booking dates on a calendar and make sure you are on line or on the phone first thing in the morning.  

BC Provincial park sites can be booked 4 months in advance.

Campsites in the national parks on the other hand can be booked in January - for the entire season.

Read more here: 2019 Campground Reservation Guide for Alberta and BC 

I booked this site in January for three separate trips in the 2019 summer camping season

7. Do your research

Talk to friends and find out what their favourite campgrounds are, read reviews, and ask around.

To read all of my personal campground reviews and see where I recommend going, check out my Camping Super Guide. 

I also recommend joining online camping groups where you can ask questions, make friends, and get practical advice. One great group in Alberta is the Alberta Happy Campers Group on Facebook. 

Discover hidden gems when you ask around, talk to friends, and join camping groups

8. Thursday is your friend

Planning on camping for the weekend at a non-reservable campground?  Take Friday off work and head out to the campsite on Thursday.  Your odds are much more favorable for finding a site!  

Big Tip:  You’ll find it easier to reserve a campsite too if you are able to go on Thursday and beat the rush by a day. 

Get the best campsites by leaving Thursday instead of Friday

9. Master the art of reconnaissance

Scout out future campgrounds you’d like to stay at when travelling.  Drive around campgrounds, write down the sites you’d like to stay in, or even get a map from the campground office and circle the best sites.  

Big Tip:  I keep all my maps from previous camping trips and they have my favourite sites marked down so I remember for next time. I also walk around every campground and circle new sites I'd like to try in the future.

When you find a site like this, you write it down!

10. Paddle your way to camp

There are some lovely backcountry campgrounds in Kananaskis and Banff that are accessible by water.  Rent a canoe for the weekend, load it up with your camping gear, and head out for a quiet camping trip where you’ll wake up to the sound of loons calling and fall asleep listening to waves lapping on the shore.  

In Kananaskis, check out Jewel Bay on Barrier Lake or the Point Campground on Upper Kananaskis Lake.  In Banff, check out LM8 on Lake Minnewanka.

Camping at the Point backcountry campground in Kananaskis 

Rampart Creek: Our New Favourite Wilderness Hostel

Last month we got the opportunity to visit a new wilderness hostel on the Icefields Parkway in Banff and I've got both good news and bad news for you.  The good news:  I found the most AMAZING family-friendly wilderness hostel that's definitely going on our annual "must stay at" list for winter getaways.  The bad news:  You have to add yet one more place to your list of places you "must visit" in the Canadian Rockies!

Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel

What's so great about the Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel?

 

Location, location, location

I could respond with "what's not great about Rampart Creek?" but I suspect you want more details than that.  First, what stands out for me is the scenery! We arrived Friday night in the dark so really had no idea of what was around us.  Saturday morning I woke up, stepped outside my cabin, and couldn't do anything but stand there in the cold staring at the mountains with my jaw to the ground.  The place is gorgeous!! In fact, I'd have to say that the Rampart Creek Hostel has the best views of any hostel I've stayed at yet in the Canadian Rockies.

There is no better scenery in Banff than off the Icefields Parkway

Rampart Creek is located on the remote Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper.  It's a bit of a drive BUT, it's perfect for a long weekend or extended vacation.  The hostel is a 3 hour drive from Calgary (272 km) and less than an hour and a half from Lake Louise.  Going the other direction, it's just under 2 hours (141 km) from Rampart Creek to Jasper in the north.

Nothing says "remote" like this photo of me actually lying down on Highway 93, The Icefields Parkway

You can rent the whole hostel for a family getaway

The second thing I really like about this hostel is how you could easily rent the whole hostel for a private getaway.  The hostel sleeps 24 people but each sleeping cabin is separated into two rooms that each sleeps 6 people.  Bring three families with you, put one family in each sleeping room, and voila - private hostel for four families.  Yes, you'll have to pay for all 6 beds per room (even if you are a family of four) but hostels are very affordable so that's something I'd be willing to do if it meant having a private cabin in paradise for the weekend! 

Sleeping cabin at Rampart Creek - 2 bedrooms for 2 families

Snowshoe out the door opportunities

There's a lovely snowshoe trail right across the highway from the hostel.  The trail follows a creek and goes down to the river after passing through a lovely meadow perfect for making snowmen and snow angels.  We spent half a day doing this hike.  Combine that with time playing outside the hostel and you can easily occupy a whole day without driving anywhere.  Now that's what I look for in a family-friendly hostel!!

Late afternoon snowshoeing in the meadows across the highway from the hostel

Playing in a snow quinzee we found on the hostel snowshoe trail

The kids loved this snow quinzee we found on our snowshoe hike

Hiking along the creek by the hostel

This snowshoe hike can be done without ever driving from the hostel

Snow Angels in the Meadow near the Rampart Creek Hostel

Making snowmen in the meadow across from the hostel

Scenery like this is hard to beat at a wilderness hostel

 

Canyons, Icicles, and SNOW

We've been having a very dry winter here with little snow.  Meanwhile at Rampart Creek there was no shortage of snow to play in.  The kids had a blast breaking icicles off the cabins too.  AND there was this super cool canyon behind the hostel.  We couldn't hike very far due to open water but I have a dream of returning later in the season and finding it frozen over.  Rampart Creek was a winter paradise for the whole family.

Breaking icicles off the main hostel cabin

Icicles on the sauna

Hiking behind the hostel in the canyon

Playing in the canyon behind the Rampart Creek Hostel

This is right behind the hostel!  Again, no driving required to go anywhere

Day Trips from Rampart Creek

If you really want to  drive somewhere for a day trip, there are options for that too.  We drove to nearby Mistaya Canyon (maybe a five minute drive back towards Lake Louise on the Parkway) and did a very short little hike with the kids.  It was only 1.5km return and took us a couple hours at most. 

Mistaya Canyon Winter Wonderland

Looking down into Mistaya Canyon

Hiking on the Mistaya Canyon Trail

For more information on the Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel and to book a room, visit the Hostelling International website.  Note that children under the age of 6 can't share a dorm room so if you have young kids, you'll have to book a full sleeping room which sleeps six people. 

Abraham Lake on the way home from Rampart Creek

For families coming from Central Alberta, the hostel can also be reached from the David Thompson Highway via Nordegg and Rocky Mountain House.  This is actually how we drove home to Calgary too because we wanted to stop off at Abraham Lake on the way home to look at the famous bubbles in the frozen lake.

Thanks to the great folks at Hostelling International for partnering with us on this story and offering us a discounted stay.  As always, all opinions are my own and I wasn't paid to write this story.

Summer Planning: Group Camping in Alberta

Group campground reservations open next Monday, February 9th, in Alberta for the entire summer so I thought this would be a good time to grow my series on Summer Planning.

Group Camping in Southern Alberta

Questions you may have:

How do you book a group campground?
How many people do you need to have in your "group" in order to book a group campground?
How is a group campground different from a normal campground?
Are group campgrounds best for tents or trailers?
Why should I consider booking a group campground?
How much does it cost to book a whole campground?
Do you have any suggestions for best group campgrounds in Alberta?

One of my favourite lakeside group campgrounds in Central Alberta with a private beach

Group Camping in a Nutshell

A group campground is a large group camping area, sometimes within a normal campground and sometimes set apart and private.  Most group campgrounds can accommodate both tents or trailers and it's about the same price per unit as it would be to camp in a normal campground. You'll need at least 4 other families to come with you to cover the cost but most of us know at least a few friends we can invite.  The big draw:  Privacy, quiet camping, and lots of room for the kids to run around and play - without fear of them getting hit by cars speeding through the campground.

In Search of the Ultimate Backcountry Ski Lodge (on Snowshoes)

I’m fortunate to live a short hour outside the park gates of Banff National Park where opportunities for both skiing and snowshoeing are abundant. Backcountry lodges are also plentiful for multi-day trips but tend to cater to skiers who will either ski in to the lodge (and maybe explore the area further on snowshoes once settled in) or else will fly in via helicopter and spend their days seeking out turns in the high alpine. Meanwhile, options are slim for those of us wanting to access backcountry cabins and lodges on snowshoes via an easy to moderate winter hiking trail.

In search of the ultimate backcountry ski lodge - on snowshoes

Most of the lodges I’ve looked at in the Canadian Rockies encourage visitors to either ski or snowshoe in. Further research however would reveal that nobody really chooses to snowshoe unless there’s a limiting factor. For example, friends have told me of trips taken on snowshoes because a party member didn’t know how to ski in the backcountry, and I once took my mother into a lodge on snowshoes because I knew there was no way she’d be skiing up and over a mountain pass without breaking a leg.

Choosing to snowshoe to a backcountry ski lodge in Banff National Park

Devout skiers will still disagree with me, but I have found a backcountry lodge in the Canadian Rockies that I actually find pleasant to reach on snowshoes. Sure, it’s not as fast without skis (that’s a given), but the scenery en route to the lodge is drop-dead beautiful and you’ll be hiking on an honest to goodness trail (the same trail that summer visitors hike in fact.) You will climb over two mountain passes and across the middle of a large alpine lake as you travel to this lodge, and you will work for that afternoon tea waiting for you upon your arrival.

Reaching an awesome backcountry ski lodge -  on snowshoes

To read more, please continue to my newest story for Snowshoe Magazine:  In Search of the Ultimate Backcountry Ski Lodge (on snowshoes)