Monday, May 15, 2023

Hike Moraine Lake to Lake Louise (via Sentinel and Saddleback Pass)

Lake Louise and Moraine Lake are premier destinations when visiting the Canadian Rockies and access has never been easier thanks to the affordable and easy-to-book Parks Canada shuttle bus system. One ticket gets you access to both lakes for an entire day with free parking and transfers between the two lakes. And you won't have to arrive at 4am this year if you want to visit Moraine Lake to hike!

Hiking from Moraine Lake to Lake Louise via Sentinel and Saddle back Pass

Last fall, we did an epic hike from Moraine Lake back to Lake Louise over Sentinel Pass and Saddleback Pass. Without using the Parks Canada shuttle bus system, a traverse like this, with vehicles required at both ends, would have been impossible.

Sentinel Pass is a premier destination at Lake Louise

Article Summary:

1. Access to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake Summarized

2. Everything you Need to Know about Taking a Parks Canada Shuttle Bus

3. The Grand Traverse: Moraine Lake to Lake Louise via Sentinel and Saddleback Passes

4. Other Recommended Hikes at Moraine Lake and Lake Louise


Disclaimer: The hikes featured in this guide are SUMMER hikes. They can be enjoyed through the autumn months as well until early October. These are NOT Spring hikes. 

Add these hikes to your list to enjoy from July onwards.

Autumn hiking in Paradise Valley at Lake Louise


Access to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake Summarized 


Access for Moraine Lake:

New in 2023 - The Moraine Lake Road will be closed to personal vehicles year round.

Parks Canada shuttles, Roam Public Transit, and commercial buses will be permitted from June to mid-October.

Access for Lake Louise:

Parking at the Lake Louise Lakeshore is extremely limited and finding a parking spot is challenging (if not near impossible) throughout the summer months. And even if you do find a parking spot at the lake, you'll have to pay to park here. (Paid parking is in effect at the Lake Louise Lakeshore during the shuttle season.)

Save yourself the hassle and take a shuttle bus or roam transit.

Lake Louise is a fabulous hiking destination if you're not fighting for a parking spot (photo: Mt. Fairview hike)


Shuttle Bus Access to Moraine Lake and Lake Louise:

Visit both Moraine Lake and Lake Louise in the same day. Reserve your shuttle ticket online and park your vehicle at the Park and Ride, located at the Lake Louise Ski Resort. (See shuttle fees here.)

Reservations can be made online starting in April with additional seats released in a rolling window, at 8am two days prior to departure day.

Taking Roam Public Transit:

Roam Public Transit can also be used to travel from the town of Banff to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake.

Follow this link to the Parks Canada Website for complete information on taking a shuttle bus or public transit to Lake Louise or Moraine Lake.


Other ways to reach Moraine Lake:

  • You can hike the Moraine Lake Road but know that it is approximately 25km round trip! Also, there is no parking at the Moraine Lake junction so you'll have to add more distance to your feet walking up the road from the Village.

  • You can bike the Moraine Lake Road (super easy with a pedal assist e-bike.) However, the road is narrow and has no shoulders. It's recommended to ride early or late in the day. There is also very limited parking in the community of Lake Louise and no parking at the Moraine Lake junction. 

    Biking is a great option for those staying in the campground, at the HI Lake Louise Hostel, or in one of the village hotels, and you can rent bikes from Wilson Mountain Sports.

  • Visitors in possession of a disabled parking tag will be granted vehicle access to Moraine Lake.
Unless you want to bike to Moraine Lake, take a shuttle bus!


Other ways to reach Lake Louise:

  • You can hike up to Lake Louise from the Village following the Louise Creek Trail (2.8 km one way.) 

  • You can bike up to Lake Louise from the Village following the Tramline Trail, an easy double track mountain bike trail that starts from the old train station. The trail is 4.9 km one way and climbs 191 metres. You can also cycle the main road up to the lake but it is narrow and has no shoulders. Taking the Tramline is much safer.

Still determined to take your own car to Lake Louise?

Those willing to pay the $21 daily parking fee can certainly take their own vehicle. (Accessible parking is $8 for those with the appropriate parking tag.)

Know that you'll have to arrive very early though (likely before 6am in the summer) and that it's entirely possible you'll be turned away. Personally, I like the idea of the shuttle bus. And, then you can visit Moraine Lake as well for the same price!

Take a shuttle and save your energy for the hiking at Lake Louise! (Photo: Devil's Thumb Hike)


Everything you Need to Know about Taking a Parks Canada Shuttle Bus


Making a reservation:

Follow the steps below to make a reservation with Parks Canada

  1. Visit the Parks Canada Reservation website

  2. Create an account on the reservation site

  3. Click on the Day Use tab

  4. Click "Shuttles to Lake Louise and Moraine Lake"

  5. In the "Park" box select Banff  - Lake Louise

  6. Choose an arrival date and number of people

  7. Click the "Shuttle" icon on the map

  8. The availability schedule will show up with times from 6:30am - 6:00pm. A red circle means that time or location is full. A green circle means there is availability.

  9. Click on a green circle for the bus or time you want. Then choose the exact time you want.

  10. Reserve your ticket.

Making a reservation to hike at Moraine Lake is easy pesay! (Photo: Larch Valley hike)


How it works on the day of your reservation:

Tickets are for a one-hour window. (Show up anytime during that hour.)

Once at the lakes you may stay as long as you choose.

You can connect between Lake Louise and Moraine Lake on a first come first serve basis by taking the Lake Connector shuttle. The connector busses run between Lake Louise and Moraine Lake all day long. Hop on a connector for no extra fee and visit both lakes.

Your ticket includes return shuttle service from either lake back to the Park and Ride at the Lake Louise Ski Resort.


Can't get a ticket for the day or location of your choice?

Don't panic if you can't get a ticket for the day or location that you want!

Additional seats are released in a rolling window, at 8 am. two days prior to departure day. So that means that Parks Canada is constantly releasing more bus seats. Only 40% of the bus seats will be open for early booking in April.

Last year I easily got tickets just a few days before I wanted to hike at Lake Louise.

And, if you can't get a ticket for Moraine Lake, just book a shuttle bus to Lake Louise. Hop off at the lake, and jump on a connector bus for Moraine Lake. (This is what we did last summer and it worked very well.)

This mighty kid climbed Mt. Temple last summer thanks to a shuttle bus reservation


Other Rules / Details to Pay Attention To:

  • Reservations are required for all shuttles departing the Park and Ride to either lake. Once you arrive at your first lake, connectors and return shuttles are first come first serve.

  • You can make a reservation by phone if you prefer at 1-877-737-3783.

  • Parking is free at the Lake Louise Ski Resort where you'll catch your shuttle bus.

  • Parks Canada shuttle buses have limited accessibility but the Roam Public Transit is wheelchair accessible and offers service between the Town of Banff and Lake Louise.

  • Make sure you're back to the Lake Louise Ski Resort before Whitehorn Drive closes for the evening! The last return shuttles depart Lake Louise and Moraine Lake at 7:30pm. After 8:00pm, there is no access to the Ski Resort due to an evening road closure, and vehicles left there will have to be claimed the next morning. 

  • Passenger pets are only allowed if they are crated, and riding in an official animal carrier on your lap. You can not book an extra seat for Fido.

  • Shuttles can accommodate many different types of watercraft including inflatable paddleboards, packrafts, inflatable kayaks, and even small hard-sided kayaks provided space permits.

  • Shuttles can accommodate strollers. 

  • Visit the official Parks Canada website below for information on hiking or camping in Paradise Valley.

  • Consult a private company such as the Moraine Lake Bus Company if you need to arrive earlier than the shuttle bus system allows for sunrise or for climbing.

More information can be found on the Parks Canada website here. 

Saddle Mountain is a fabulous hike in larch season 

The Grand Traverse: Moraine Lake to Lake Louise via Sentinel and Saddleback Passes


Last fall we got the great idea that because of the shuttle bus system, we could hike one-way from Moraine Lake back to Lake Louise without having to stage our own vehicles at both ends. 

Our hike took us 8 hours and we hiked a total of 23 km, gaining 1200 metres of height. Our average pace was only 3.5 km per hour so we certainly weren't running, and we enjoyed a lovely day hiking through golden larch trees.

And for other families wondering "could my family do this?" My son was 13 at the time, but he had been training for distances of 20+ km all summer, and had already climbed Mt. Temple earlier in the summer (which has 1700 metres of height gain.) By comparison, this hike from Moraine Lake to Lake Louise was an easy trip for him.

This grand traverse is fully doable for any strong hiker, regardless of age, but you need to work up to a distance and height gain like this. It was a great fall hike for my family after a summer of big training.

I recommend getting an early start! Remember that the last bus leaves Lake Louise at 7:30pm. (And I'd be a bit nervous about having to catch the final bus of the day in case everybody else has the same idea!) 

Also remember that your car will be locked in the Lake Louise Ski Resort parking lot after 8:00pm.

Average time for this hike, depending on how many times you stop, would be 7-10 hours. We didn't stop much but tried to keep moving at a steady pace.

Hiking through golden larch trees in Larch Valley

Using the Parks Canada Shuttle Bus System:

We reserved three shuttle bus seats with a 9am departure from the Lake Louise Ski Resort. I booked the seats a week in advance and easily made the booking to arrive at Lake Louise. I wasn't able to get tickets for Moraine Lake, but that wasn't a problem thanks to the connector bus system.

We arrived at 8:30am and were loaded on our bus well before 9:00. We arrived at Lake Louise within 15 minutes, hopped off our bus, and jumped straight on to a Moraine Lake connector bus. Within another 20 minutes, we were standing on the lakeshore of Moraine Lake, ready to hike well before 10am.

Our hike back to Lake Louise took us 8 hours, and we were easily able to catch a bus from the lake back to the ski hill. We waited 2 minutes at the very most before stepping off the trail and on to a bus that still had space for us. 

By 6:30pm we were back at the ski hill, ready to drive somewhere to grab dinner. 

Thanks to the shuttle bus system we were able to start our hike at Moraine Lake, finish our hike at Lake Louise, and we didn't have to struggle with parking. 

The whole process was very civilized and we never waited for a single bus all day. We walked straight on to all three of our busses. I'm sure we got lucky (and that probably isn't the norm) but we found the system extremely easy that day!

And, I only paid $18 for my family to take advantage of the shuttle bus system for the day.


Autumn hiking in Larch Valley

Our Hike from Moraine Lake to Sentinel Pass:

From Moraine Lake we climbed up gentle switchbacks into Larch Valley and then up steep switchbacks to the summit of Sentinel Pass. 

This is where most people turn around and head back to Moraine Lake.

The hike from Moraine Lake to Sentinel Pass is 5.8 km one way and you'll gain 700 metres on a well maintained trail. In late September the golden larch trees are spectacular as you hike through Larch Valley.

Looking down on Larch Valley from the climb to Sentinel Pass

Read about the hike on All Trails here.

Read about the hike on the Parks Canada website here.

Check trail reports on the Parks website above and make sure you carry bear spray! At times of high bear activity there may be trail restrictions in place requiring hikers to travel in groups.

Looking up at the steep switchbacks to Sentinel Pass

Larch Valley from the top of Sentinel Pass

Our Hike from Sentinel Pass to Sadleback Pass:

There is an official trail down the other side of Sentinel Pass but it is less traveled and far rougher in nature. Expect loose rock, steep switchbacks, and a big boulder field you'll have to cross.

I wasn't a fan of this section but it was a necessity if we wanted to reach Upper Paradise Valley and Lake Annette. Once we entered the trees again, and left the rubble field behind, the hiking got much easier as we descended into the valley.

Descending rock and rubble from Sentinel Pass down to Paradise Valley

Upper Paradise Valley and back in the golden larch trees

Lake Annette is a beautiful spot for a break, but we had to keep moving to ensure we'd catch a bus back to our car.

You'll lose 600 metres of height descending from Sentinel Pass to Lake Annette. From there, you descend another 100 metres until you reach the junction with Saddleback Pass. There are a couple of junctions, but we took the Sheol / Paradise Connector Trail to reach the pass.

Late afternoon at Lake Annette in Paradise Valley

We climbed another 500 metres of height from Lower Paradise Valley to the top of Saddleback Pass.

This section of our hike down from Sentinel Pass and back up to Saddleback Pass was 12 km.

Read about the trails on the Parks Canada website here.

You can also see my route here on All Trails

And, don't fancy the climb to Saddleback Pass? You can take a lower traverse that skips the extra climbing. My son was seriously choked we chose to climb the second pass rather than taking the easy option to reach Lake Louise.

See the lower traverse option here on All Trails.

Looking down on Saddleback Pass from the slopes of Saddle Mountain

Saddle Mountain add on:

How can you walk right by an easy summit, and not climb it?!

My boys would respond "easily!!" 

I tackled the Saddle Mountain extension by myself. Had to. It was right there! And it's only an extra 100 metres of climbing! 

There is no official trail for this one. From the pass head up the mountain on the east side of the pass climbing up a faint trail through the rock and rubble. The views are incredible in golden larch season.

From the other side of the pass you can climb Mt. Fairview, which I don't recommend if you're hiking all the way from Moraine Lake. From Lake Louise though it's an amazing hike!! Height gain for this one is 1000 metres from Lake Louise.

Read about the trails on the Parks Canada website here.


And before you add this mountain on to your hike, check your watch and make sure you'll have enough time to catch a bus back to the ski resort. It takes at least an hour to hike back to Lake Louise from the top of Saddleback Pass at a steady pace.

Saddle Mountain Summit with Mt. Fairview across the pass

Our Hike from Saddleback Pass to Lake Louise:

From the summit of Saddleback Pass, you have 3.7 km ahead of you with a height loss of 600 metres to reach the lakeshore of Lake Louise.

Nobody in my group especially loved this part, being exhausted by this point, but it was an incredible feeling to do such an epic traverse from Moraine Lake to Lake Louise over two large passes. (Not to mention tagging on a mountain!)

Read about the trails on the Parks Canada website here.

Hiking down from Saddleback Pass through golden larch trees 

Looking back up at Saddle Mountain

Other Recommended Hikes at Moraine Lake and Lake Louise


Read some of my previous guides to see other amazing hikes we've done in this area:





Looking down on Lake Agnes and Lake Louise from the summit of the Devil's Thumb




Thursday, May 04, 2023

Plan a Spring Camping Trip at Fairmont Hot Springs

Spring has arrived in the sunny Columbia Valley with dry trails for hiking and biking just waiting for you to explore. We usually launch the camping season at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort where we also get to enjoy unlimited soaking and swimming in their large pools.


Introduction to the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort

The Fairmont Hot Springs Resort is located in the Columbia Valley between the communities of Radium Hot Springs and Invermere to the north, and the City of Kimberley to the south. From Calgary, the drive is just over 3 hours depending on where you live. It's easy enough to reach Fairmont on a Friday after work, and the drive is doable for a short weekend, returning to the city Sunday afternoon.

Options for accommodations at the resort include:

  • Lodge rooms in the main resort (some with lofts and kitchenettes) - they sleep 4-6 people

  • Cabins and cottages - they sleep 4 -6 people and some are dog friendly 

  • Juniper Lodge rooms (with kitchenettes) - they sleep up to 4 people and some are dog friendly

  • Family Villas - they sleep 4-6 people 

  • RV sites at the adjoining campground next door

  • RV or tent campsites at the Spruce Grove campground  a short drive down the highway (open after the May long weekend)

    All stays at the hotel resort include access to the hot pools.

    Guests staying at the RV resort or at the Spruce Grove campground get a discounted admission to the pools of $12 per person, which gets you a day pass and unlimited access to the pools for the day.

    There's lots of room to splash around in the warm swimming pool at the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort

    Soaking in the the hot pool at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort

      Spring Specials and Events at the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort

      Visiting Fairmont Hot Springs is very doable for a 2-day weekend, but for a more relaxed visit, plan a trip over a long weekend. 

      There's a spring special right now where you can book a 3- night stay and only pay for 2 at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort (Valid April 1 – May 18, 2023.) - which includes the Mother's Day weekend!

      And for you non-camping folks, you can also stay at the regular hot springs resort if you'd prefer a hotel-style room. (and there are spring specials for the regular resort too.)

      RV camping at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort (deluxe river view site)

      Celebrate Mother's Day at the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort 

      Camping over the Mother's Day weekend makes a great gift for any outdoor-loving mom (especially if you treat her to brunch at the resort Sunday morning!)

      This year, Fairmont Hot Springs Resort is hosting their first annual Mother's Day Walk on May 13th! This is a community give-back action from women for women, with funds being raised for the Invermere Women's Shelter in collaboration with Crazy Soles, Invermere.

      Children ages 6+ are welcome to participate in the walk. Dogs are also welcome to join as long as they are on leash (and you pick up after them.)

      And don't worry - I just like the photo with my son below. You won't be climbing a mountain.

      Register for the Mother's Day Walk on the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort website.

      Plan a Mother's Day Trip to the Columbia Valley 

      Sign up for an Ultimate Guide to Backyard BBQ Afternoon this May
      "Experience the combined knowledge of two award winning pitmasters in a delicious and fun filled afternoon. Get Smoked BBQ and Double Aces Backyard BBQ have teamed up to deliver a backyard BBQ class like no other!" - with VIP packages available

      This Backyard BBQ event will happen on May 20th and 21st. Visit the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort website to register.

      Spring is a great time to visit Fairmont Hot Springs 


      Camping at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort


      The Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort is located next door to the regular hotel resort and we've camped here many times. 
      "The Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort is the highest Good Sam rated RV Resort in British Columbia and one of the highest rated in Canada, and it’s easy to see why. 
      Your immaculate site is just steps from the legendary natural mineral hot springs, our three golf courses, year-round shops, the Natural Springs Spa, an abundance of dining locations and our Basecamp, where our Activity & Experience experts provide fun for the whole family and help you plan your next adventure.
      The RV Resort’s proximity to nature is unrivaled. With trail heads right at your doorstep, you don’t have to trek far find tranquility in the surrounding mountains." - Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort

      The resort has 190 full service sites and guests get to enjoy all of the amenities of the main resort next door. 

      Fall camping at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort in a standard site

      View the Fairmont website to see the different kind of campsites available to book at the RV Resort. 

      We usually book a standard site but the bar has been set higher now that we've tried a deluxe river view site (where it felt like we were camping on top of a mountain as we watched the sun set over the Columbia River each night.)

      Many of the middle sites don't have "great" privacy when the campground is full, but if you have a smaller trailer/van, try to book one of the standard sites in the eastern part of the campground (sites 71-83,) or if you're camping early season we really like sites 108-115 in the upper part of the campground where it's very quiet.

      See the resort map here. 

      These small sites in the upper campground are very quiet in spring 


      Note: You must have a certified RV or motorhome to reserve a site in the RV Resort. Trucks with truck caps, roof top tents or converted vans or buses that are not certified will not be allowed. 

      If you don't meet the requirements to camp at Fairmont, the Spruce Grove Campground is located just down the road. This campground opens for the May long weekend each year and is a lovely campground for tenters with many non serviced sites. It also has several RV sites with full or partial hookups, a swimming pool, and you'll still get discounts for the hot springs.

      We usually camp at Spruce Grove later in the season (June through the September long weekend) because we like camping beside the Columbia River.

      Spring camping at the Spruce Grove Campground beside the Columbia River


      Why we Love Camping at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort


      The Hot Springs!

      We love camping right beside the hot spring pools. We usually bring bath robes so that we can wear our swim suits over from our campsite, and we enjoy not having to drive to the pools.

      We head to the pools right after breakfast while we wait for it to warm up on a cool spring morning. We usually head out for a bike ride or a hike afterwards, and then return to the pools again late afternoon, sometimes visiting a third time in the evening. A $12 day pass gets you unlimited access.

      Meanwhile, when we camp in Radium Hot Springs, we have to pay $16.50 per adult (children + youth, $14.25,) to use the hot springs there, and it's a single entry fee. 

      Needless to say, camping at Fairmont Hot Springs is a great way to enjoy hot spring soaking at a more affordable price for the whole family.

      Enjoying the warm swimming pool at the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort


      There are endless options for activities without leaving camp

      We love camping here because there are many hiking paths that start right from the campground. We can go out for a walk, warm up in the hot pools, hang out at camp for a while, play a round of mini golf, and then go back to the pools. And to splurge, we can just walk over to the main resort for a decadent restaurant meal, Sunday brunch, or even afternoon appies and drinks at the family friendly pub.

      You'll pay a $10 "resort experience" fee when you stay at the Fairmont Resort (including the RV Resort) but it includes many activities and amenities including:
      • Discounted access to the hot springs for RV users (complimentary access for hotel guests)

      • Mini golf on site (with both an 18 hole and 9 hole course)

      • Daily family activities such as movie nights, scavenger hunts, crafts, and indoor and outdoor games

      • Access to the gym inside the resort's main building

      • Sports including tennis, bocce, and basketball (with equipment available to borrow)

      • One bucket of balls per day (per person) for the driving range at the Riverside Golf Course across the highway - with clubs available to borrow

      • Unlimited Wi-Fi at the resort and in the campground 

      Read more about the RV Resort amenities here on the Fairmont Hot Springs website or in my story below: 



      Free mini golf awaits you when you camp at the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort 

      Luxury Campsites

      We also love that every site has full hookups so we don't have to fill our water tank before setting up camp. (And we don't have to empty the tanks when leaving!) I can use my coffee maker, the toaster, and the microwave (we don't camp simply,) and cable TV hookups are available on some sites.

      Note: There are no campfires permitted at this RV Resort. If you want a campfire at night you can either use a propane fire bowl, or you can camp at the Spruce Grove Campground down the road which has fire pits at each site.


      Premium mountain view RV sites at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort

      Make a Reservation! 

      Read more about the RV Resort on the Fairmont website where you'll see a description for each site category and find a map of the resort. 

      Reservations can also be made online a year in advance and are super easy to make! Just select the type of campsite you want, and an availability map will show up with available sites.

      And don't worry if you aren't a "book sites a year in advance" kind of person! There are always available campsites at Fairmont in the spring.

      This could be you at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort!


      Camping at the Spruce Grove Campground


      Riverside camping doesn't get much better than the Spruce Grove Campground, affiliated with the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort. When the river is low, there's also a beautiful sandy beach to play at.
      "With 137 camping and tenting sites (some of which are fully serviced) and a free heated swimming pool, this scenic BC camping spot is particularly popular with group gatherings and families.
      Situated on the banks of the sparkling Columbia River that wraps around the campground, Spruce Grove is just a short drive from the main Fairmont Hot Springs resort area. " - Fairmont Hot Springs Resort

      Riverside Camping at the Spruce Grove Campground

      Riverside camping 

      If you're looking for riverside camping, check out the campground map here. There are four riverside sites with power + water (248-251,) and the rest (252-275) are non-serviced. 

      You must have an RV or trailer to camp in one of the "pink" sites with services. You can't claim a prime serviced site and put up a tent on it. 

      If you want a site with full hookups (water + electric + sewer) you can't camp beside the river, but there are a few nice sites across from it (240-243.)

      And while not exactly "beside" the river, these unserviced sites, (277-280,) are worth mentioning for their quiet private location.  Camp here in the spring and you might be all alone in the back.

      We love camping beside the river at the Spruce Grove Campground

      Beach camping 

      I've had people express shock when they see my photos of the campground with an actual beach, because it disappears when the water is high. When the campground opens May long weekend, there is definitely a big sandy area beside the river. Camp anytime before mid-June and you'll find the beach. After that, it varies year to year. 

      In July or early August you likely won't see the beach, but then it slowly comes back by mid August in time for the September long weekend.

      August camping at the Spruce Grove Campground with our private beach

      How to access the river and the beach:

      The official campground access to the beach and to the river is from the far end of the campground, near site 278, where there is a path to the river. The path doesn't show  up on the campground map, but I promise it's there.

      So, if you want to spend time on the beach or beside the river, camp at the far end of the campground near sites 277 - 278.  (Check out the campground map here.)

      Please do not walk through occupied campsites to access the beach or the river. (We've camped in front of the beach and had people walk through the middle of our campsite without asking permission, while dragging kids, chairs, toys, etc.)

      If you really want to make sure you get a site in front of the beach, you can book your site up to a year in advance and then you can secure your campsite with its private beach. - which  is what I do.

      Spruce Grove is a hidden gem in the Columbia Valley


      Other perks of camping at the Spruce Grove Campground:

      • You can camp in a mixed group with tents and RVs (great for family get togethers)

      • You still get access to the Fairmont Hot Springs pools with the guest discount

      • There is a free swimming pool at Spruce Grove

      • You can fish in the river right from the campground (don't forget to buy a BC fishing license)

      • Riverside access for those who like kayaking, canoeing, or stand up paddleboarding. (more information below)

      • No resort experience fees (Campers at Spruce Grove do not pay the $10 resort fee that you pay when staying at the RV Resort)

      • A natural camping experience. (Expect grass, gravel roads, and lots of trees.)

      This campground is only open between the May long, and September long weekends. For early or late season camping, make a reservation at the Fairmont Hot Springs RV Resort. - no tents.

      Fishing from the Spruce Grove campground

      Paddling from the Spruce Grove Campground

      If you like kayaking, canoeing, or stand up paddleboarding, this is a great campground. It's a short paddle from the boat launch on Columbia River Road back to camp, and a quick one-hour trip. (Google maps is a bit weird with this one, but I promise if you follow this road, you'll come to a good put in spot beside the river that's fairly obvious.)

      Alternately, start at camp, paddle through the Riverside golf course, and take out at the boat launch below the golf course on River Drive (near Wilder Memorial Park.) This takes a couple of hours at most.


      Evening paddling on the Columbia River

      My husband often drives me up to the put in above camp so that I can SUP my way back to camp in the evening. As a family we like to do the longer paddle down river, but we have to figure out the shuttle part which gets tricky (unless camping with friends.)

      If you want to join an organized tour or rent boats, visit the staff at the main resort where you can often book a kayaking tour on the Columbia River in the summer.

      Paddling down the Columbia River from the Spruce Grove campground 

      Make a Reservation! 

      Read more about the Spruce Grove Campground on the Fairmont website where you'll see a description for each site category and find a map of the resort. 

      Reservations can also be made online a year in advance and are super easy to make! Just select the type of campsite you want, and an availability map will show up with available sites.

      And even if you decide to make a spontaneous last minute decision to go camping, there are usually sites available in spring.

      Adventure awaits when you camp at Fairmont Hot Springs

      Other Activities to Enjoy While Camping at Fairmont this Spring


      If you're visiting in May, check out the family-friendly Wings over the Rockies Nature Festival which runs from May 8th - 14th. There are some great family-friendly events happening over the Mother's Day weekend.

      Mountain biking is one of our fav. spring activities at Fairmont

      Biking around Fairmont

      Some of our favourite family-friendly mountain bike trails are located near Fairmont so we always come out here in the spring when it's not quite as hot. The Spirit Trail is a fav. bike ride of ours every spring (and usually one of our first mountain bike rides of the season in April.)

      There's also a brand new paved bike trail that starts near Invermere and ends at Fairmont. The Markin-MacPhail Westside Legacy Trail is 25 km long (one way) and has easy, intermediate, and advanced sections.

      Read more about the trails around Fairmont here in my bike guide:


      Paved Biking on The Markin-MacPhail Westside Legacy Trail 


      Hiking around the Fairmont Hot Springs Resort 

      For hiking around the campground, we like the Owl Loop and the Geary Lookout Trail. 


      Note the Waterfall Trail is officially closed due to flooding and erosion that occurred in the spring of 2020. 

      And for a fun walking challenge, check out the Hot Spring Heist Scavenger Hunt. The game is free for resort guests with a special code that staff can give you.

      There are also several geocaches hidden around the resort that we've had fun looking for.

      There are many great walking trails around the resort 

      Other Spring Fun!

      There's LOTS to do around Fairmont in the spring. For more inspiration, read my previous guides:




      Disclaimer: We have been hosted at Fairmont Hot Springs Resort and this story is written in partnership with the resort. 








      Wednesday, April 19, 2023

      Mesa Butte - Family Hiking in Kananaskis

      Mesa Butte is a popular spring hike in South Kananaskis, and is the only trail I know that has a fire pit on the summit! The promise of roasted marshmallows or hot dogs should motivate most youth to tromp their way up the Grind, and there are several options for starting points to make this hike as short or as long as you want it to be.

      Mesa Butte dries out early for great spring hiking


      Trailhead Information


      Mesa Butte is located south of Bragg Creek near the hamlet of Millarville.

      From Calgary, drive southwest to Bragg Creek and then go through the traffic lights continuing to follow Highway 22. You'll come to the junction with Highway 66 where most of us would usually turn right, heading towards Elbow Falls.

      This time, you're going to turn left on Highway 22, heading east. You'll be turning off right away on Highway 762 heading south. This quiet country road is paved and you'll follow it to the junction with the Highway 549.

      When you reach Highway 549, turn right (west) until the road turns to gravel. And here is where you have your choice of trailheads (see below for more on your choices.)

      See the route on Google Maps here which takes you to the Mesa Butte Provincial Recreation Area.
      The route starts at the Petro-Canada gas station west of Calgary at the junction with Highway 22, and from here it is 45 minutes driving time. From my house in West Calgary, it takes us just over an hour to reach the trailhead.

      Several Trails take you to the top of Messa Butte

      Regardless of which trail you choose, they all finish on the "Grind"


      Trail Options to Reach the Mesa Butte Summit


      These options are listed in the order that you'll reach the trailheads driving along Highway 549. 

      Curley Sands Trailhead - Park in the grassy ditch just off the road past the North Fork Provincial Recreation Area. The trail heads into the trees here. (All Trails link) 

      This route is 8 km return as an out and back with 470 metres of height gain. The trail climbs to a pretty ridge where you'll reach the summit on Curley Sands Hill. It then drops down to the Curley Connector, losing less than 100 metres of height gain, before climbing up again to the Mesa Butte summit.

      Know if you choose this route, you'll have to climb back up and over Curley Sands Hill on the way back. It's not a big climb, but could feel big if you have children who are tired. (We decided to do a loop on our way back to avoid this.)

      Nothing says South Kananaskis like a sign full of bullet holes!

      Hiking along the Curley Sands Ridge to the top of Curley Sands Hill

      Curley Connector Trailhead - Park at the entrance to the Mesa Butte Provincial Recreation Area and Campground. The trail heads into the trees here. (All Trails link)

      This route is 6 km return as an out and back with 228 metres of height gain. It follows a nice ridge all the way to the summit of Mesa Butte.

      Climbing on the Curley Connector Ridge

      Curley Connector Junction

      Mesa Grind Trail  - Drive past the Mesa Butte Campground until you come to a gas well access road and park here. (All Trails link)

      This route (according to All Trails) is 4.5 km return with 268 metres of height gain. 

      My Kananaskis Country Trail Guide has the distance being much shorter, but I'd rather set your expectations for a longer hike and have you pleasantly surprised (rather than the reverse with angry kids.)

      Climbing the Mesa Grind to the summit

      You can see a map on the Kananaskis Trails website here which shows the parking lots for the Curley Connector and Mesa Grind Trailheads.

      I also encourage you to pick up a copy of the Kananaskis Country Trail Guide, Volume 4, by Gillean Daffern. She has a fabulous map to the Mesa Butte area in her book with every trail clearly labeled. - Amazon affiliate link 

      Mesa Butte is a pleasant spring hike when most trails are still very snowy

      The Mesa Butte Loop that we Hiked

      We parked at the Curley Sands Trailhead and followed this trail to the summit of Curley Sands Hill before dropping back down to the Curley Connector Trail.

      We climbed the Connector Trail to the summit of Mesa Butte where we met another family enjoying a picnic beside the firepit. 

      Forested section descending the Curley Sands Trail to the Connector

      Climbing the Connector Trail with Curley Sands Hill in the background

      Climbing the final hill to the top of Mesa Butte on the Grind Trail

      If you want to make a fire to roast hot dogs or marshmallows, be prepared to share the space. You'll also want to bring your own wood or kindling at the very least, a lighter, and a small hatchet if you want. Two shovels were provided so make sure you put out the fire when you leave (which is easy with snow right now.) If the snow has melted, you should be prepared to shovel dirt on the fire to extinguish it and possibly carry in some extra water. 

      Summit fire pit (where you'll also find a picnic table)

      From the summit we hiked back down to the junction with the Grind/Traverse/Connector trails and chose to take the Mesa Traverse Trail back to our vehicles. (The kids did not want to climb back up and over Curley Sands Hill.)

      Hiking back down the Grind Trail

      The Mesa Grind Trail is only steep at the very end

      The Traverse trail crossed through an open meadow below the Butte which was all good, but then it ended in a large muddy clearcut which we followed to a well road, also muddy, eventually coming out on the highway a short distance from our vehicles.

      The Mesa Traverse trail crosses a meadow below the Butte

      There are markers everywhere in this area to help keep you on trail

      Crossing the Mesa Traverse Trail

      The loop would  be an acceptable option in the dry season but I can't really recommend it now (unless you like mud.) It would be better in spring to hike out and back to the Butte from one of the other trailheads.

      In spring, this is what waits you at the end of the Mesa Traverse Trail

      Our hike was 10.6 km in distance with 472 metres of height gain. (And it's not lost on me that it was actually longer in the end, despite us choosing the loop to make the hike "easier.") Returning the same way would have been 8 km return, even climbing up and over Curley Sands Hill.

      You can see our Mesa Butte Via Mesa Traverse loop here on All Trails.

      It took us 4 hours to hike the loop at a very relaxed pace, so even though we chose the longest option possible, it was still a  relatively short hike. 

      The Mesa Butte Trail ends on a well road (most of which is full of mud in spring)


      Hiking the Mesa Butte Trails in Spring 

      We didn't use spikes or ice cleats when we did this hike (April 16th) but there were still patches of snow and ice on the Curley Sands and Connector Trails.

      The Grind Trail was dry, so this should be your first choice if you don't like mud, or are done with snow. (Note we only joined the Grind Trail at the junction with the Connector so it's possible that there is still snow lower down.)

      Choosing to hike any of the other trails in the area pretty much guarantees mud (The Mesa Traverse or the Mesa Backdoor Trails for example.)

      I recommend wearing gaiters and hiking boots for spring hiking here. Poles will help you with any slippery section, and it's a good idea to have ice cleats in your backpack.

      The Curley Sands, Curley Connector, and Grind Trails are generally dry by mid April

      Avoid taking the Mesa Traverse Trail in spring - MUD city!


      Reminder before Visiting Kananaskis...

      You will need a Kananaskis Conservation Pass to do the Mesa Butte hike. Purchase a daily one for $15 per vehicle or pay $90 for a yearly pass, good for two vehicles at the same address.


      And recommended reading:

      Read: Spring Hiking Super Guide to the Best Trails in Kananaskis 

      Read: The Best of Spring in the Canadian Rockies 












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