Showing posts with label Jasper National Park. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Jasper National Park. Show all posts

Friday, August 20, 2021

Take your Family on a Guided Hike across the Athabasca Glacier

August is rapidly flying by, and with it grows my list of "summer fun activities not yet completed." Our list gets longer every year and it includes simple things such as "spend a day at a beach" or "ride a rollercoaster," all the way up to "go backcountry camping" or "camp on an island."

Of the more adventurous things on our annual summer fun list, one is always very challenging to complete, and that's "walk across a glacier" - because after all, how many glaciers do you know near Calgary where you can just walk up to the ice, hop on, and go for a stroll with the kids? (The answer, is not many!)

Checking fun off the annual summer list including "walk across a glacier!"

It's not every day you get to walk across a glacier with your kids!

Why Glaciers are so Special!

In three words, because "glaciers are disappearing!" If you've visited the Columbia Icefields Centre in Alberta, you're likely familiar with the Athabasca Glacier and the signs that you'll pass by as you drive up to the glacier telling you that in 1920 the glacier reached this point, or in 1960 it reached this new point. Even my husband can recall visiting the Athabasca Glacier as a child in the early '80s and it was much closer to the highway than it is now. It is rapidly receding each year and one has to wonder, how many years do we have left?

"Even if we significantly curb emissions in the coming decades, more than a third of the world's remaining glaciers will melt before the year 2100." - World Wildlife Org.


My husband remembers vividly his first visit to the Athabasca Glacier as a child, so much so that he was able to tell our son all about the experience. And I want my son to be able to do the same for his children, those children to their children, etc.

We are a "seize the moment" family and we try to take full advantage of every fleeting opportunity. This includes walking across 10 000 year old glaciers and trying to plan one glacier walk every summer somewhere in Alberta or BC.

Walking across a giant 10 000 year old sheet of ice!


The Athabasca Glacier and the Columbia Icefields

If you drive from Lake Louise to Jasper, you'll pass by the Columbia Icefields Centre where you can visit the Athabasca Glacier. 

The Athabasca Glacier is a giant sheet of ice dating back 10 000 years. It is one of the glaciers that flows down from the Columbia Icefield, one of the largest non-polar ice fields in the world.

Facts: 

  • The Athabasca Glacier is one of the six principal 'toes' of the Columbia Icefield - Wikipedia

  • The glacier currently loses depth at a rate of about 5 metres per year and has receded more than 1.5 km and lost over half of its volume in the past 125 years. - Wikipedia

  • The glacier still covers an area of approximately 6 sq km (2.3 sq mi) and at its thickest, measures 300 m (980 ft). - Travel Alberta 

  • The glacier is approximately 6 km (3.7 mi) long if you were to traverse it from the toe all the way up to the Icefield. - Wikipedia

On our recent tour, we hiked about 4.5 km up the Athabasca Glacier until we reached the large icefall below the icefield.

We spent 6 hours hiking across this giant sheet of ice as a family


Guided Tours with Athabasca Glacier Ice Walks 


We recently had the opportunity to join a guided full day tour with the Athabasca Glacier Ice Walks company on the border of Jasper National Park at the Columbia Icefields Centre. We met our guide in the parking lot closest to the toe of the glacier and there we were outfitted with any gear we'd need for our tour.

Our guide provided the spikes we'd need to walk on the ice and also had rain pants or hiking boots if anybody needed extra gear. There were 8 people on our tour (including my family and two friends who had come with us.) 

Approaching the glacier with our group

We had chosen the full day tour which would involve hiking across the glacier for 6 hours (9 km in distance return) to reach the icefall at the end of the lower glacier. For families wanting a shorter tour, there is also the half day option which does not reach the icefall, but still visits many mill wells and cool features on the glacier.

Both full day and half day tours go well beyond the spot that you'd get to visit if you were to take one of the giant snow coach busses onto the glacier. We had done that in the past, but wanted to go outside the "safe, machine packed area of the glacier" this time. We wanted a shot at the "real deal" this time, walking across the wild and natural glacier to see the ice in all its splendor.

The bus that we did not take! (We waved and then we passed them to go further up the glacier)

We got to have lunch inside the bottom of the icefall, which was crazy awesome, and our guide made many stops to tell us all about the glacier, its features, its uniqueness, and its history. 

Lunch inside the icefall at the end of the lower glacier 

And, I'd like to point out that you're welcome to ask questions and to "guide" the experience to receive the value and education you'd like to gain. Depending on the age of your children or youth, what they're studying in science, and what your family's passions are, you might have different topics you'd like your guide to address from climate change to in depth facts about glaciology and the history of ice.

My family had lots of questions around the surrounding mountains, climbing routes and how to make one's way through the icefall. We were especially interested in mill wells, crevasses, and the unique features of the ice. And at least one of us was very keen to get inside the ice if our guide found a tube or cave to explore (which unfortunately we didn't this time - but our guide did try!)

Our guide checking out a cool feature to see if we could go inside to explore

The guides are also excellent at "reading" the group. Ours could tell that we were a fast, strong, group and that we were especially interested in the ice itself. He took us up a bit higher into the icefall to have lunch and explore.

So please, use your guide to answer the questions that you as a family have. They are extremely knowledgeable and even my husband learned a lot (and he's been exploring glaciers on mountaineering trips for over 15 years.)

WOW Moment: In the photo below, the kids stand beside a metal post with yellow tape at the top. The glacier reached the top of that tape just 15 days before this photo was taken! And the pole was standing upright when the glacier reached the top!



Indigenous Led Tours with Athabasca Glacier Ice Walks 


Families will also be interested in knowing that you can join an Indigenous Led Tour where two guides will take you out on the ice, one focusing on glaciology and the history of the ice (as our guide did on our tour,) the other, a local Indigenous Interpretive Guide and Educator, sharing his unique perspective with an acknowledgement of the land from a First Nations perspective.

"Athabasca Glacier IceWalks is thrilled to be partnering with Zuc’min Guiding to provide guests with a learning opportunity with Tim Patterson, Indigenous Interpretive Guide and Educator, and ACMG Hiking Guide.
Guests will learn about the historical and current significance of the Columbia Icefield region through an Indigenous lens. Though no single Indigenous group was settled in the region, the mountain passes were used by several Nations for trading, both pre and post-European contact. From an ecological perspective, the Athabasca Glacier plays a critical hydrological role, supporting ecosystems and communities across North America. This walk will promote an understanding and appreciation of the importance of this water resource, today and into the future."

This is a half day, 3 hour tour, so you will not reach the icefall on this walk. 

Learn about the significance of the Columbia Icefield from an Indigenous perspective 

Highlights of our Tour: Exploring the Mill Wells 

I've walked on several glaciers before and have climbed many mountains requiring a glacier ascent. Never though have I seen giant mill wells like we did on the Athabasca Glacier. My son screamed when he got to peer down into the first one, and we were all left awe-struck at each and every one.

"A moulin (or mill well) is a roughly circular, vertical well-like shaft within a glacier or ice sheet which water enters from the surface. The term is derived from the French word for mill. They can be up to 10 meters wide and are typically found on ice sheets and flat areas of a glacier in a region of transverse crevasses"

Looking down into a mill well on the Athabasca Glacier 

In common speak, you'll be looking at giant holes in the ice that look like caverns with waterfalls pouring into them! My husband calls them "waterslides of sadness" which makes me laugh, but seriously you don't want to fall in a mill well! - and this is one of the biggest reasons you want to take a guide on the Athabasca Glacier.

Our guide had us walk single file behind him through the section of the glacier that had lots of mill wells, and he carefully walked us up to each hole one at a time, holding on to us as we peered down.

Our guide helping one of the kids look down into a giant mill well

You would not want to fall into this mill well!

Highlights of our Tour: Exploring the Icefall


We walked across the ice for about 4.5 km to reach the icefall at the end of the lower glacier but we were never bored as we constantly stopped to peer down into mill wells and study different aspects of the ice.

Our guide leading the kids up to the icefall

Upon reaching the icefall we were certainly glad we'd pushed on to the end because it was a surreal experience to be walking around inside a waterfall of jumbled ice. The photos below are some of my favourites of our time inside the icefall. 

A look at some of the interesting ice inside the icefall

And don't worry because your guide keeps you safe the entire time, chooses a careful line through the ice, and you'll only go up inside the icefall when conditions are suitable so that your spikes will work on the steep ice.

Walking through the icefall following our guide

A magical world few children will get to experience!

My boys on the Athabasca Glacier

Guiding the kids through the icefall 

A magical world of ice on the Athabasca Glacier

How amazing is ice!!

So glad I got to experience this wild place with my son!


What you need to Bring for your Glacier Walk

Nothing.

Well, not "nothing" but if it's technical gear, you don't need to bring it.

What you do need to bring is nothing other than what you'd bring for a normal day hike while expecting that the weather at the Columbia Icefields can be particularly variable! It can feel like winter in the middle of summer once you show up at the toe of the Athabasca Glacier and weather forecasts for Banff or Jasper can't really be trusted.

It's a wild world up on the Athabasca Glacier!

What to pack and wear:

  • A small day pack with your snacks, lunch, water, sunblock, sunglasses, a sun hat, etc.

  • Waterproof hiking shoes or boots. (If you don't have anything suitable, talk to your guide and ask to borrow a pair of boots.) - And you'll want warm socks that will keep your feet warm even if your boots get a bit wet.

  • Warm pants that can handle some moisture if it starts to rain. (Or bring shell pants with you.) And again ask your guide if you need to borrow a pair of shell pants. - Personally, I was way under dressed and would have been better prepared if I'd have dressed for X-Country skiing rather than summer hiking. You don't want ski pants, but waterproof shell pants with some fleece lined tights or insulated pants would be ideal.

  • Several layers up top including a t- shirt, a warm long sleeve shirt, an insulated mid layer like a light puffy, and a raincoat or Gore-Tex shell. 

  • Mittens of gloves and a toque (Trust me here!)

Expect anything when you pack for a day on a glacier!

Basically, we're talking about layers!! Have enough clothing that you'll be ok if it's 20 degrees and sunny, or if it's hovering around zero, windy, and lightly raining. You really never know what you'll get at the Icefields.

I suggest bringing more than you need and at least having it in your car. If you luck out and it's a gorgeous hot bluebird day, you can leave some of the winter clothing in the car, but at least you'll have it.

Looking down the Athabasca Glacier from the icefall

Book your Own Tour on the Athabasca Glacier 


Want to book your own tour? Visit the Athabasca Glacier Ice Walks website to find more information and to book a tour for your family.

And I have a promo discount code that's good through next summer. To receive the code just send me a message on either Facebook or Instagram, or email me

Looking inside a mill well at some of the incredible ice!

Where to Stay on the Icefields Parkway 


We spent the night before our tour at the Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel. We had a private cabin for the 5 of us with bunk beds for six people. There was a shared common cabin as well with a fully equipped kitchen including dishes and cooking supplies, a propane powered fridge, two stoves, and two large tables for eating.

Don't expect anything too fancy (there's no microwave or coffee maker) as there is no electricity. The hostel makes do though with a combination of propane and solar charging.

Our accommodations at the Rampart Creek Hostel on the Icefields Parkway

From the hostel it was only a 30 minute drive to the Icefields Centre so we didn't have to get up at 5am to make the drive from Calgary. 

After our tour we easily made it home to Calgary the same day, stopping in Canmore for dinner.

Other hostels along the Icefields Parkway include HI Mosquito Creek (which is closer to Lake Louise,) HI Hilda Creek (which is much more rustic in nature and requires a short hike in,) and HI Beauty Creek (past the Icefields towards Jasper.)

Our sleeping cabin at Rampart Creek

Visit the Hosteling International website for more information on the wilderness hostels and to book a cabin or room for your family.

We found this to be significantly easier than camping for a night and we were more than comfortable at the Rampart Creek Hostel.

HI Rampart Creek on the Icefields Parkway

Touring the Icefields Parkway 


Spending the weekend on the Icefields Parkway? Check out my guide for other fun adventures you can explore with your family while you head out for your ice walk.


On our recent trip we headed out Saturday morning and hiked to Bow Glacier Falls at Bow Lake. We spent the day there before driving further to the hostel for the night.

Touring the Icefields Parkway

Bow Glacier Falls above Bow Lake

Visiting Bow Glacier Falls is a great adventure on the Icefields Parkway


Disclaimer: Our tour was graciously hosted for this review. As always, all words and opinions are my own and I wasn't paid for this story.








Wednesday, March 10, 2021

Winter Road Trip! North to Jasper National Park

I grew up in Northern Alberta and Jasper was our closest mountain destination for ski weekends and family getaways.  Living in Southern Alberta now, it's always a special treat for me when I get to return to Jasper and I love introducing my son to the places that were special to me when I was a child.

We recently spent three nights in Jasper and I was reminded that Jasper is an ultimate adventure destination in winter. We tried ice climbing, hiked an incredible canyon full of ice and frozen waterfalls, and spent a day on the slopes at Marmot Basin. I'm pretty sure we each gained 5 pounds as well eating at all the phenomenal restaurants in town.


2024-25 Disclaimer: Many areas, trails, restaurants, and resorts remain closed around the Town of Jasper following the wildfires of 2024. Please visit the Tourism Jasper website along with the Parks Canada website before planning your visit, and research any trails you plan to hike or ski.

Maligne Canyon will be closed for the 2024-25 winter season.

Holy Guacamole indeed! Winter in Jasper is an exciting adventure!

Maligne Canyon is an icy winter wonderland!


North to Jasper along the Icefields Parkway

The town of Jasper is located 400 km north of Calgary or 360 km straight west from Edmonton.  In summer, it's pretty easy to access Jasper from Calgary via the Icefields Parkway (a highway that connects Lake Louise and the Town of Jasper) but in winter this road is always snow covered, often closed for avalanche control, and requires special attention.

We still make the trek once every winter or two from Calgary and love driving the Icefields Parkway for the incredible scenery, but winter tires are mandatory between November 1st and April 1st, and you'll want to check road reports before heading out. (and before returning!)

As a cautionary tale, we easily made it to Jasper for our recent trip, but didn't check road reports for the Parkway before leaving Sunday. We went for a nice hike, assuming the highway would be open because conditions hadn't changed since our arrival, and then discovered after that we'd missed the last chance to drive home that way by 10 minutes. The road was closed for avalanche control and we had to take the long way home via Rocky Mountain House and Highway 22. 

The route from Calgary to Jasper can be seen here on Google Maps.

More information on driving the Icefields Parkway can be found here on the Parks Canada Icefields Parkway Travel Guide.  

There's a great map and winter brochure that can be downloaded from the Parks Canada site too.

The Icefields Parkway is one of the most scenic highways in Canada!


Highlights for quick stops along the way to Jasper:

  • Stop at Bow Lake to take photos on the frozen lake. (Stay away from the slopes along the edges of the lake and stick to the middle of the lake. Do not hike past the end of the lake where you'll be in avalanche danger if you start climbing up the summer hiking trail.) 

  • Stop at Bow Summit and hike the closed road to the Peyto Lake Viewpoint. (The viewpoint is closed for 2021. When it's open you need snowshoes or cross-country skis to reach the viewpoint. Do not hike beyond the viewpoint or you'll be in avalanche terrain.)

  • Stop at the Columbia Icefields Centre and hike to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier. (Snowshoes are necessary and do not walk on the glacier.)

  • Stop at Tangle Falls to look up at the frozen waterfalls. (Ice cleats or spikes are required to approach the frozen waterfall. Beware of falling ice and give ice climbers space.)

  • Stop at Athabasca Falls and enjoy a short well maintained trail to the falls. (Winter boots are required.)
Hiking to the toe of the Athabasca Glacier on a bluebird day

Tangle Falls is a great stop along the Icefields Parkway


Cabin Life in Jasper


Everybody loves a cozy cabin with a real wood burning fireplace. That's the mountain dream for accommodations, right?

While there are many lodging choices for cabins if you visit Jasper in the summer, options are much more limited in winter. Fortunately, we got to spend three nights at the Bear Hill Lodge on our recent trip to Jasper, where you'll find the only cabins in town open year round.

One of the chalet cabins at Bear Hill Lodge in the Town of Jasper 


We stayed in a Chalet Room which had a queen bed for my husband and I, and a single bed for our son. We enjoyed the wood burning fireplace with cozy chairs and a small table where we ate breakfast in the morning or read books in the evening. Wood was available for purchase at the front desk as well which was appreciated since we hadn't thought to pack any.

Our room didn't have a kitchen, but we did have a small fridge and coffee maker. Other studio rooms and cabins did have kitchens though if that would be useful for your family. We were taking a complete break from cooking and either ate out or picked up food to bring back to our cabin.

You can see the full collection of lodging options at Bear Hill Lodge here. You'll find a variety of options from small romantic cottages to 2-story suites or fully equipped heritage cabins with kitchens, 


Inside our cozy chalet room at Bear Hill Loge 


Family-friendly Ice Climbing Adventure


We had an introductory ice climbing tour booked for us with Rockaboo Mountain Adventures and it will definitely be a highlight of 2021! Our entire family was able to participate and it was the perfect way to celebrate my son's recent 12th birthday.

Youth ages 12 and up are able to join the "Experience Ice Climbing" tour and so it was an amazing way to help our son say hello to bigger and greater adventures.

Family-friendly ice climbing in Jasper National Park (This is my 12 year old!)


Rockaboo provided everything we needed to try ice climbing and no previous experience was required.

You can read all about our adventure here in my newly published story: 


Ice climbing at Tangle Falls in Jasper National Park - a terrifyingly awesome experience!


Hitting the Slopes at Marmot Basin Resort


Marmot Basin Resort was the first real ski resort I visited as a teenager and I remember cruising down the mellow green runs with names like "Bunny Hop" and "Old Road." We've visited Marmot Basin twice now with our son and it's been fun introducing him to my home hill. 

My son definitely skis better than I did when I was his age though and while I was coasting down "Sleepy Hollow" in my younger days, he's dropping into the Tres Hombres chutes and skiing the double blacks off Eagle Ridge. 

The ski resort was very busy because we visited on a Saturday so I'd recommend either visiting mid-week or trying Sunday (Sundays are generally the quieter day at all ski resorts.)

Birthday Bowl for a new 12 year old at Jasper!


You can read more about Marmot Basin in my previous story after our last visit a few years ago:



Jasper is often open until the beginning of May! Spring skiing anyone?


All the Food!! (and where to find the best beer + coffee) 


We ate so well while we were in Jasper I'm sure we each gained at least 5 pounds. Below our some of my recommendations based on where we've eaten in Jasper.

Breakfast:


Coco's Café - We called the café ahead of time to order our breakfast (or you can order online) and then my husband ran over to pick it up. We were able to enjoy our food from the comfort of our cabin. 

Highlights included the best homemade granola I've ever had (Seriously, order the homemade granola with yogurt & fresh fruit,) good strong coffee, and a breakfast wrap to die for!!

Normally the café is open to in-person dining but at this time it's take out only.

The Crazy Elk Café - This café is located in the Lobstick Lodge and is a great spot to pick up grab and go breakfast + lunch items at the same time. We stopped here and loaded up on food before our ice climbing adventure. 

Highlights included amazing breakfast sandwiches and Starbucks coffee. Our sandwiches for lunch were also very tasty and significantly better than what you'd find at the grocery store for pre-made sandwiches.

O'Shea's Restaurant at the Athabasca Hotel - This is a classic, and we never visit Jasper without stopping here for breakfast. We ate here on our last day in Jasper when we had no agenda and could afford the time for a dine-in breakfast experience. 

You'll find the classic "bacon, eggs, and hashbrowns"  here that will fill you up before the drive home.

There are many grab and go options for breakfast in Jasper


Lunch, snacks, and afternoon coffee:


In addition to the Crazy Elk Café mentioned above, I also recommend my favourite bakery below.

Bear's Paw Bakery - It is my personal opinion that this bakery serves some of the best coffee in all of Alberta! I would drive to Jasper just for a cup of their dark roast backpackers brew.

We stopped in daily for an afternoon coffee and pastries to go. We also picked up lunch items before driving home.


I would drive to Jasper just for a coffee and baked good from the Bear's Paw Bakery


Dinner: 

Jasper Pizza Place - The big highlight here of course is the pizza with options for thick crust pizza or thin crust pizza from the wood burning oven. We tried three kinds of pizza and my personal favourite was the Gochujang Pork (A Korean inspired pizza with pulled pork and pineapple.)

Tip: you'll want to arrive early to beat the dinner rush.


Jasper Brewing Company - We don't ever visit Jasper without stopping in at the Brewing Company at least once for drinks (usually for dinner as well.) 

There is a wide variety of local beers to try (brewed in house) but my favourite is the Jasper the Bear Ale. My husband and I also both liked the Trail Session IPA. 

In addition to the beer, they also have the best nachos in all of Alberta (I'm sure of that) and my boys both like their burgers.

Tip: you'll want to arrive early to beat the dinner rush. This restaurant is very popular!


Famoso Italian Pizzeria - Because you can never have too much pizza, we visited a second pizza restaurant for a completely different experience. This pizzeria specializes in thin crust Neapolitan style pizza.

We tried two different pizzas but my favourite was the San Andreas with chicken, tomatoes, green onions, cilantro, and avocado. (It was my first time ordering a pizza with avocado on it, and it won't be my last.)

Tip: This restaurant is small so arrive early to beat the dinner rush. 

Nachos and beer at the Jasper Brewing Company 


Other Recommended Winter Activities in Jasper 


We had one spare day to tour around Jasper so chose to visit Maligne Canyon which is always a lot of fun to explore in winter when you can go down inside the canyon.

With spring approaching, the window on this hike is closing as the ice starts to melt. In summer you have to hike up above the canyon.

If you're planning a visit to Jasper next winter though, you can get all the info you'll need on Winter in Maligne Canyon here from Parks Canada.

Maligne Canyon is a magical place in winter!


We didn't use a guide because we know the canyon well, but it's highly recommended to join an official tour for this winter hike if you haven't done it before.

If you're visiting in the next few weeks I'd also suggest big rubber boots! The canyon is melting out and you will get wet feet. (Even we couldn't make it to the final frozen waterfall because the water was too deep.)

You can get more suggestions for winter activities in Jasper here from Parks Canada. We've always enjoyed skating on Mildred Lake at Jasper Park Lodge where there is a large oval cleared off each winter. We visited the lake one evening on our recent trip with headlamps and enjoyed a few peaceful laps around the smooth ice.

There are frozen waterfalls around every corner in Maligne Canyon


Recommended Reading for Upcoming Trips to Jasper 


Spring in Jasper National Park - The Parks Canada website has lots of great suggestions for those of you planning a trip over spring break or Easter.

Visit the Tourism Jasper website - Here you'll find great information on lodging, accommodations, restaurants, and more.

You'll want to pick up some local beer to drink in front of your fireplace at night



Additional Reading on our Adventures in Jasper









Experiencing Awesome in Jasper National Park Summer in Jasper National Park


Our Top Ten Favourite Things to do in Jasper - Summer in Jasper National Park


Autumn Adventure Weekend in Jasper - Staying at the Pine Bungalows in Jasper



Disclaimer: Our recent trip to Jasper was hosted by Tourism Jasper. We received complimentary lodging, meals, and tours. All opinions and words are my own.