Friday, April 10, 2015

Easter at the BEST Wilderness Hostel in the Canadian Rockies


It's spring in Calgary and we just did a 20 km family bike ride today on glorious snow-free pathways.  Leave the city and head into the mountains though and it's a slightly different picture. The front ranges near Kananaskis and Banff are starting to melt out and are becoming dry enough for spring hiking or biking, but go towards Lake Louise (or beyond) and it's still very much winter.

Spring in the Canadian Rockies still looks like this beyond Lake Louise

We spent the Easter long weekend at a small rustic cabin located on the border of Jasper National Park, just a short drive away from the Columbia Icefield Centre on hwy 93.  We were only an hour and a half north of Lake Louise but it felt like we were in the middle of nowhere (beautiful, blissful nowhere!)

Hilda Creek, Our Mountain Retreat on the Icefields Parkway

The Hilda Creek Wilderness Hostel is our favourite property in the collection of hostels operated by Hostelling International because it only sleeps 6 and so we get a private mountain retreat every time we go.  We enjoy the privacy with another family and we don't have to worry about disturbing other hostel users who may (or may not) enjoy listening to our children running around screaming and playing loud games.

Playing in the snow outside the Hilda Creek Hostel

My Sales Pitch - Why You Have to Take your Kids to Hilda Creek


Nobody's paying me to tell you that you absolutely have to plan a trip to Hilda Creek.  But you do!  It's just too fabulous a place not to visit at least once if you live in (or plan to visit) the Alberta Rocky Mountains.  Below are just a few of the many reasons why we love Hilda Creek:

1.  Snow, snow everywhere!  The kids build snow houses and tunnels, we build giant luge tracks for sledding, we snowshoe up to the glacier moraines behind the hostel (before hitting avalanche terrain,) and we explore the nearby Athabasca Glacier (which had an ice cave this year!)

Sledding down the hill behind the Hilda Creek Hostel

2.  Kids get to see a magical world that is usually reserved to backcountry skiers.  I'm not a backcountry skier and am always slightly jealous of the places my husband gets to go when he's on his ski trips with friends.  At Hilda Creek though, we get to go play in Daddy's backcountry ski world.  We get to see glaciers, we can go sledding down glacier moraines, and we can go snowshoeing into the backcountry where the scenery is unlike anything I've ever seen on a family hike.  (See notes further down in this story about avalanche safety while at Hilda Creek.)

Climbing Glacier Moraines and Playing in the Backcountry above the Hilda Creek Hostel

3.  Winter Camping made Accessible for the Average Family.  There's no way I'm going to go sleep in a tent in winter, camp in the snow, or sit outside cooking a dehydrated meal in the cold over a small backpacking stove.  And while some families are up for that challenge, I believe I'm with the majority who is not!  Enter Hilda Creek where you can "pretend" you are camping but still have all the comforts of a heated cabin.  You can cook inside, sleep inside, and you get a real bed to sleep in (no hard cold snowy ground.)

Sledding down glacier moraines above the Hilda Creek Hostel

4.  Backcountry Accommodations with a Front Country Approach.  I love snowshoeing or skiing into backcountry huts in winter but it's hard to do a 12 km backcountry ski trip with kids.  Meanwhile, Hilda Creek requires 5 minutes of walking from highway to cabin door.  That's my kind of backpacking trip!  You still have to haul all of your stuff in, but bring a sled or two and it's a few relatively painless trips.

This scenery was found within a 30 minute hike from the Hilda Creek Hostel

5.  Hilda Creek Offers an Easy Way to get Kids into the Backcountry.  Rather than ski 12+ km into the backcountry, I prefer to just hike 5 minutes into my cabin that's already perched at the edge of some pretty spectacular backcountry terrain.  Then from the cabin, you can go explore with day packs and a sled or two.  That's family travel made EASY.

The Easy Hike up towards the Hilda Glacier from the Hilda Hostel

Spending Easter at the Hostel


What did we do to celebrate Easter?  We colored eggs and sent the kids searching for chocolate filled plastic eggs that we had hid around the hostel.  It was fun watching the kids go on a snowy winter wonderland Easter egg hunt.

Snowy Easter Egg Hunt
The Loot after the outdoor Easter Egg Hunt

We also hid their Easter bunnies with an avalanche transceiver and made the kids hunt for them with a second transceiver.  This was a lot of fun and I think we'll do more transceiver searches next year.  It's just like geocaching, but with something that beeps at you as you get closer.

Searching for Easter Bunnies with Avalanche Transceivers


Details You will Need to Know to Play Your Stay - Avalanche Safety


First, know that there is very real avalanche danger NEAR the hostel.  We stayed out of harm's way because we had experienced backcountry skiers in our group who have the training to know where to go and where not to go.  If you do not have avalanche training and significant winter backcountry experience you should not go hiking above the hostel to the moraines.  We felt very confident with how far we hiked but again, we had experience and training on our side.

For our primary hike from the hostel, we followed the creek (behind the bathrooms) and hiked up towards the Hilda Glacier.  We stopped at the first moraines, just outside of avalanche risk. 

Hiking towards the Hilda Glacier is a great family activity for those with backcountry training

If you do not have avalanche training, stay at the hostel, play in the snow in front of the hostel, build sled runs down the hill behind the hostel, and even climb up through the trees a ways behind the hostel.  As long as you don't go above tree line, you are safe right behind the hostel on the backcountry skiers "up track."  We hiked up to tree line on our last day at the hostel and it was beautiful up there.  Again, backcountry knowledge is incredibly useful on this hike too and if you don't know what "tree line" is, it's safe to say you should probably stay at the hostel down below.

Hiking up to tree line behind the hostel (this is as far as we went)

If you have ANY doubts as to how far you can hike around the hostel, where is safe to play, or are looking for ideas, please stop in at the Lake Louise Info. Centre en route to the hostel or play it safe and stick close to the cabins.  You are 100% safe from all avalanche harm at the hostel itself.

I'll be writing a follow up piece as well on hiking around the Athabasca Glacier because this is a safe trip that can be done from the hostel for all families regardless of experience in the backcountry.  The hike starts from the Icefield Centre further up the road and follows a very good hiking trail that is 100% family friendly.  Read the story here:  Jasper has an Ice Cave - For Real!

Hiking to the Toe of the Athabasca Glacier near the Hilda Hostel at the Columbia Icefield Centre

What to Expect From the Accommodations (and what to bring)


Hilda Creek is basically a backcountry cabin.  You will either need to haul water in with you, or collect it from the nearby stream (if not frozen.)  If the stream is frozen, you'll need to melt snow for drinking and cooking water (and it takes a lot of snow to make one bucket of water!)

Bathrooms are outside in the form of outhouses and midnight runs are neither convenient nor pleasant.  On the plus side though, at least you aren't digging a pit somewhere when nature calls.

There is a stove (no oven) and there are sinks in which to wash dishes.  Water from the sinks is collected in buckets underneath and then has to be taken outside to dump.  There is no indoor fireplace (or outdoor fire pits) but there are propane heaters inside both the kitchen and sleeping cabin.  Users do require knowledge to get the propane turned on though and to fiddle with the system which can be a bit touchy at times.  And finally, there are solar powered lights in the cabins but they are very dim and it's recommended you bring an LED lantern or two for extra light.

Our little cabin in paradise, Hilda Creek

Besides drinking water and extra lights, you should bring a sled to haul your gear into the cabin.  Bring a cooler for your perishable food and a plastic bin (with lid) for your non perishable food.  It's good if you can keep all your food covered at night because there are definitely mice in the kitchen.  Bring sleeping blankets and pillow cases (pillows are provided) but leave the mattresses at home (which are already there.)

Finally, you'll want to bring snowshoes for hiking, skis if you plan to do any backcountry skiing (and have the knowledge to do so with proper avalanche gear,) and any toys that will amuse the kids inside or outside of the hostel.  We find books to be a great source of entertainment for downtime along with a portable DVD player or tablet (kids can only play outside for so many hours in the cold after all.)

Hiking up to tree line behind the Hilda Creek Hostel

 



Book Your Own Trip to Hilda Creek (and check it out in the summer!)


To book your own trip at Hilda Creek, call Hostelling International or visit the website for more information.

Hiking on the Moraines above the Hilda Creek Hostel
Mountain Yoga anyone?
Who wouldn't love a weekend here?

Want to see what a stay at Hilda is like in the summer season?  Check out this story I wrote last fall:  Moving on to Big Adventures - and the Kids get to Come Along.  Summer is a lovely time on the Icefields Parkway and you'll be able to hike above the hostel free of avalanche danger.  This makes a stay a bit more reasonable for the average family.

Hiking above the Hilda Creek Hostel last Fall


Monday, March 30, 2015

Spring Skiing at Nakiska Mountain Resort

Spring is here but the ski season isn't quite over yet.  Calgary's closest mountain, Nakiska Mountain Resort, is open until April 19th this year. With live entertainment, family activities, and warm weather, it's a great time to gather up the kids and head out for one last ski weekend (or two) of the season.

Spring Skiing at Nakiska Mountain Resort


Easter At Nakiska Mountain Resort


Easter is a fun time to come out to Nakiska for a day with games and activities for the whole family.  Join Telus Winter Sports School for the Nakiska Spring Olympics this Saturday and Sunday, April 4th and 5th.  Two sessions run from 11:30-12:30pm and from 1pm-2:30pm.   There are prizes to be won and all you have to do to register is to meet in front of the BBQ tent before one of the two sessions.
Spring Skiing at Nakiska

If relaxing is more your speed, there is also live music on the hill this weekend on Sunday, April 5th.  There will be a live DJ on the Finish Line Patio playing great music while you enjoy a drink on the patio while soaking up the warm spring sun.


Other Spring Promotions at Nakiska


There will also be a live DJ at Nakiska on both Saturday and Sunday, April 11th and 12th, and on the following Saturday, April 18th. This is great for families who may want to come out for the weekend to stay at the Delta Lodge at Kananaskis.

Spend the morning skiing, spend the afternoon hanging out in the sun on the patio, and then retreat to the lodge for dinner and some time at the hot tub and pool.

All special offers for the Delta Lodge can be found on their website if I've just given you a brilliant idea for a fun spring weekend away.

Plan Ahead for Next Year


The early bird sale for next year's season passes will begin in May with all information on pricing released at this time. For more information, visit the Nakiska website.


Wednesday, March 25, 2015

Summer Planning: Where to Camp in the National Parks of Alberta

My previous Alberta camping story on the best provincial park campgrounds in Southern Alberta has been immensely popular but it was missing the beautiful national park campgrounds along with one very sweet private campground we love outside of Waterton Lakes National Park.

Without further introduction, below are the best places to camp in (or near) Alberta's mountain parks.

Camping in Waterton Lakes National Park

Waterton Lakes National Park


Waterton Lakes has to be one of our favourite places to go camping and it's an easy drive of under 3 hours. Go for a long weekend and make sure to read the following stories as you plan out your trip:

Camping in Waterton Lakes National Park

Family Fun in Waterton Lakes National Park

Paddling in Waterton Lakes National Park

Ten Awesome Things to Do with Kids in Waterton Lakes National Park

Hiking at the Waterton Springs Campground

In Waterton, the main option for camping is at the Main Town Site Campground. From here you can bike or walk around the town, launch a canoe right from your campsite, and easily head over to the town splash park or playground.

Biking the Kootenai Brown Trail in Waterton Lakes National Park

Two Jack Lake, Banff National Park


This is our favourite place to camp in Banff National Park and probably the best campground located within an hour's drive from the Calgary city limits. The campground you want to stay at is called Two Jack Lakeside (not Two Jack Main) and it offers premier lakeside campsites for those on the ball early enough to book the best sites.

Paddling on Two Jack Lake, Banff National Park

What's to love about Two Jack Lakeside:

  • Lakeside camping

  • Walk-in tenting at lakeside sites

  • Warm heated bathrooms with showers

  • Comfort camping in O'TENTiks

  • Close to the town of Banff

  • Family-friendly paddling on Two Jack Lake
Canoeing on Two Jack Lake, Banff National Park

To read more on this campground, read my story:  Banff Campground Review - The Good, the Bad, and the Awesome.

For more information on Comfort Camping at Two Jack Lake, read Comfort Camping in Banff National Park  and Comfort Camping in Banff - the Experience.

The reservation date for booking sites in the national park is always in January for the whole summer. More information can be found here on the Parks Canada website.  

Lakeside site and O'TENTik at Two Jack Lake in Banff

Tunnel Mountain Campgrounds, Banff National Park


These aren't the most scenic, remote, or private of campgrounds.  What you're getting here though is convenience (camping right in the town of Banff,) serviced sites with power if you desire this amenity, and enough space for a large RV if that's what you bring camping.

There are three campgrounds on Tunnel Mountain, and The Village I campground is where tenters or families with small trailers will want to be.  It's the most natural of the campgrounds and you will not be camped on pavement.  At Village II you'll be camping on pavement but you'll also have power for your trailer or RV (great for chilly spring camping.)  Finally, the Tunnel Mountain Trailer campground is where you'll find space for a large RV with service at every site.

Lovely private sites surrounded by trees on all sides at Tunnel Village I

For our family, the main reason to camp on Tunnel Mountain is for the mountain biking. The Tunnel Campground loop goes around the three campgrounds and is a great intro to children wanting to learn to bike off pavement. It's a great family ride with compact gravel and dirt.  It's also wide enough for parents pulling Chariots.

Mountain biking on Tunnel Mountain, Banff

There are also dozens of other mountain bike trails on Tunnel Mountain for riders of all abilities.  We love the Tunnel Bench Loop and the Bow Falls- Hoodoos Trail.

I've written about biking in Banff here:   

The Best Family Bike Trails in Banff National Park

Mountain Biking the Tunnel Bench Loop in Banff with Kids.

Trying to conquer the Tunnel Bench Loop

For more information on camping at Tunnel Mountain, read my story: Our New Favourite Campground in Banff.

Reservations follow the same process as for Two Jack Lakeside above and can be made in January each year for the camping season.

The bike trails are why you camp on Tunnel Mountain in Banff

The Icefields Parkway, Banff and Jasper National Parks


There's no "one" campground here that is best.  All of the campgrounds along the scenic Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper are awesome. They are primitive (so don't expect showers,) and most of them don't accept reservations (so aim for camping mid-week during summer peak season,) but this is premier camping in Banff with views to die for.

Scenery of the Athabasca Glacier from the Wilcox Pass Hiking Trail, Icefields Parkway

If I were to pick my favourite campground along this scenic highway, I would choose Mosquito Creek.  It's located close to Bow Lake for hiking and paddling, close to Bow Summit and Peyto Lake (for more hiking and classic views,) and it's only a half hour drive from Lake Louise.

Bow Lake on the Icefields Parkway

For more information on the Icefields Parkway, visit this link to the Jasper National Park website.   Information on camping can be viewed at the Banff National Park website or the Jasper NP website.

Hiking on Parker Ridge, Icefields Parkway

Top Attractions on the Icefields Parkway for Families:



The Majestic Icefields Parkway from the Bow Summit Lookout

Recommended Reading:

Experiencing Awesome in Jasper National Park

Our Top Ten Favourite Things to do in Jasper

Glacier Skywalk Tour in Jasper National Park


Jasper National Park


After exploring the Icefields Parkway, you should definitely continue on to the town of Jasper and camp nearby for a few nights at least.  Our favourite two campgrounds are the Wapiti Campground  and the Whistlers Campground because they are at the end of the Wapiti bike trail and we can bike to town and back from camp.

Whistlers Campground has become our top choice right now because of the Whistlers Campground Bike Trail that meanders through camp, connecting several play areas to one big playground.

Read more about biking in Jasper here: The Best Family Bike Trails in Jasper, Alberta.

Hiking up Whistler's Mountain in Jasper


Recommended reading to find out about our favourite things to do in Jasper:

 
Our Top Ten Favourite Things to do in Jasper

Experiencing Awesome in Jasper National Park

Family-friendly Summits in Jasper National Park

The Best Family Bike Trails in Jasper

Easy family mountain biking in Jasper

For more information on Jasper, visit the Tourism Jasper website.


Campsites in Jasper can be booked for the whole summer season in January each year.  More information is on the Parks Canada website.

My beautiful Jasper as seen from Whistler's Mountain


All information on booking these great campgrounds can be found HERE

Monday, March 16, 2015

The Most Popular Hike in Banff - Without the Crowds

I've said before that there must be photos of Banff's Johnston Canyon hiking trail on billboards across the world advertising the Canadian Rockies.  Come summer, you'd be hard pressed to get a photo on this popular trail without at least two dozen tourists in the shot, and you could be parking a mile down  the road in order to get near the place.

Hike Johnston Canyon in winter, spring or fall though and you'll find solitude in abundance, you'll get your quiet moments on the trail, and you might even have the whole place to yourself as we did last winter.  (of course it was -30C at the time, but we still had the trail to ourselves.)

I don't need to write much about Banff's number one hiking trail and a quick Google search will honestly tell you absolutely everything you need to know anyway.  I just want to share some photos, show you why this hike is awesome at this time of year, and maybe encourage you to hike the canyon NOW before the tourists and crowds arrive in another few months.

Catwalks, a Cave, and the Lower Waterfalls of Johnston Canyon

 

Hiking on the Johnston Canyon Catwalks
Hiking through the canyon en route to the Lower Falls
The Cave and the Lower Falls
Popular shot for photos on the bridge in front of the Lower Falls

 

Hiking to the Upper Falls

 

Ice appears everywhere as you reach the Upper Falls
The Upper Falls and ice climbers on them (photo taken from the canyon below the trail)

The BEST Part of the hike (going off trail into the canyon before the Upper Falls)


This one needs a disclaimer:  Do not walk on thin ice, do not go try to climb the falls without proper equipment, stick to official or at least unofficial trails that take you into the canyon, etc.  We found a lovely little side trail that took us down into the canyon right before the Upper Falls.  We played for a bit, enjoyed the view, and left again on the main trail.  We did not try to descend or hike down the canyon because that would be too dangerous (and dumb.)

Down in the canyon near the Upper Falls
The kids had a lot of fun playing down in the canyon
I love the Upper Falls as seen from down in the canyon
This was as far as we descended in the canyon - before returning on the main trail
This part of the trail was the highlight for us

The Hike Out


Another disclaimer:  Bring ice cleats or something for grip.  You'll notice them on our feet in the photo above.  I swear by micro spikes but my son wears yak trax which are much cheaper.  A small pair of yak trax is supposed to fit ladies with feet sized 6.5 - 10, but my son fits them and he isn't even a size 1 yet.   XS micro spikes are designed for kids with feet size 1 and bigger and that will be what my son gets for next winter.

This is what the trail looks like in spring when it's icy
This is how you'll descend the trail if you don't have ice cleats (be warned)
Looking down on the Lower Falls and the cave

And a fun video to end things off

 






For more information:


Visit the Town of Banff's website for detailed information on the trail.   It is 2.7 km one way to the Upper Falls but much shorter to the Lower Falls.  Most children aged 3+ should be able to make it to at least the Lower Falls and the cave with no difficulty.  

Thursday, March 12, 2015

The Top 10 Spring Family Hikes in Kananaskis

I got the following email message a couple weeks ago:
"I am a mom of 4 kids. I really want to start family hiking - but am a complete novice.  Scared I might be eaten by a bear or fall into ice!!!  Have you written a post about getting kids and families started - best hikes to start with?"

Then last week I received this following message:
"I would like to take my 18 month old daughter out to the mountains this weekend and was hoping that you might have a trail suggestion or two.  Ideally within 1 hour or hour and a half drive."

While I did respond to both moms, I figure there are at least a few more of you with the same questions.  And since it's spring in the Rockies, I'm going to start with Spring Hiking.  I'm also going to focus on Kananaskis because it's close to Calgary with trails that lose their snow quickly in the warm spring sun.

Spring Hiking in the Bow Valley on the Flowing Water Trail


The Top Ten Spring Family Hikes in Kananaskis 


The First Five Hikes for Young Children


In my story, Spring Hiking with your Family in Kananaskis, I write about the following five hikes that are awesome for families with young children.
  • Beaver Flats Interpretive Trail, Elbow Valley

  • Paddy's Flat Interpretive Trail, Elbow Valley

  • Troll Falls, Kananaskis Valley 

  • Heart Creek, Kananaskis Valley

  • Widow Maker Trail, Kananaskis Valley 

Information on  those the trails can be found in the story above.

Playing on the Beaver Flats Trail, Elbow Valley


More Hikes in the Elbow Valley


The Fullerton Loop is the next little hike that comes to mind and it's the perfect next step for children that are able to hike a 5km loop.  The trailhead has a brand new start post-flood so if you've done this one before, you'll find the new trail starts across the highway from the Allen Bill Day Use Area.  Also, there is no more pond at this day use area.  The river has reclaimed the whole area.  It's still a fun little spot though for the kids to play by the river and for the family to have a picnic.

Resting on the Fullerton Loop, Elbow Valley
 
The next hike in the Elbow Valley that I LOVE in spring is the Prairie Mountain trail.  This one is great for the older kids because you'll be climbing 700 m to get to the summit.  There's no cute little creek on this one but the feeling of reaching a summit is incomparable.

Note the trail always has a lot of snow on the upper part of it until mid-May so be prepared with ice cleats if going early season.

Standing on the summit of Prairie Mountain, March 8th

For more information on this trail, please read the story I wrote last September, More First Summits:  Prairie Mountain, Kananaskis.   

Hiking down the summit ridge on Prairie Mountain

Hikes in the Bow Valley


I've written a lot about spring hiking and biking in the Bow Valley on the Flowing Water Interpretive Trail and the Many Springs Interpretive Trail.  Therefore, I refer you to those stories:


Hiking on the Many Springs Trail, Bow Valley Provincial Park
Biking the closed campground roads of Bow Valley Provincial Park in April

The final hike - Prairie View Trail, Kananaskis

This one isn't last for any reason other than that the link below leads you to many other hikes you can do with your family this spring.  You may not have noticed, but there is an entire page on my blog devoted to the topic of Spring/Fall Hiking. It's at the top of the website beside other tabs on best hikes, day trips, picnic sites, and city hikes.

Read more on this hike: First Summits - Yates Mountain and the Barrier Lake Lookout, Kananaskis

Barrier Lake from the Prairie View Trail, Kananaskis Valley


I hope I've given you tons of suggestions now.  There is life beyond Elbow Falls!  I promise.  So get out there and explore.  Happy Hiking!!

Rest Break on the Heart Creek Trail