Winter Adventures in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Kananaskis

We love exploring Peter Lougheed Provincial Park all year long, and appreciate that we can reach the park in less than an hour and a half from the Calgary city limits. This park is definitely a crown jewel in Kananaskis Country, and in my opinion is one of Alberta's most beautiful provincial parks.

Blueberry Hill Lookout, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

So far this winter, we've spent 6 days cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, and even ice-skating in the park as a family. Below are the highlights from our adventures this winter, the trails we've enjoyed, and the adventures we've found.

Kananaskis Fire Lookout, Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Highlight One: Skiing to the Kananaskis Lookout early season in November

The Kananaskis Lookout Trail is only 1.7  km long (one way) but packs a punch with 200 metres of height gain. Climb up on skis and you'll feel your muscles the next day.

The next challenge is that the Lookout Trail is accessed from the Pocaterra Trail, and there's no easy way to reach the junction of the two trails. The shortest way starts with a long climb up the Whiskey Jack ski trail for a total distance of 6 km (one way) to the top of the Lookout from the Boulton Parking Lot. (And Whiskey Jack also gains 200 metres of height, so you're looking at a 400 metre climb!)

Fortunately, in November, there's a "secret" way to reach the Lookout without having to do the climb up Whiskey Jack. Skiers can sneak on to the Pocaterra Trail from an unmarked pull off on Highway 40 (past the winter road closure, hence why you have to do it in November before the highway closes on December 1st.)

Skiing to the Lookout from the secret parking lot off Highway 40

The unmarked pull off to access the Pocaterra Trail is roughly 8 km past the Highway 40 winter gates on the right hand side. You'll be well on your way to Highwood Pass before you reach it. Pull over, cross the little bridge, and ski for a short distance (less than half a kilometre) until you reach the official Pocaterra Trail. Turn left and ski for another half a kilometre (at most) to the Whiskey Jack Junction - where you'll marvel that you've made your way to the TOP of Whiskey Jack by car and not by climbing.

From the Whiskey Jack junction it's another half a kilometre to the Lookout Junction. And your grand total distance for the day will be no more than 6 km round trip. (with no more than 250 to 300 metres of height gain.)

Kananaskis Fire Lookout

So save this one for next November. - and know that you'll be on official ski trails the entire time so snowshoeing is only an option if you go early November before trails are groomed. Otherwise, if you must snowshoe, go mid-week when you likely won't meet too many skiers. 

November Ski Touring in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

And trip notes from this year's ski up the Lookout:

We carried our son's downhill skis with us in case he needed them for the descent. He started out in cross-country skis and would have been fine in them the entire time, but this was one of his first ski trips of the season and there was a LOT of fresh powder (with no recent grooming.) His cross-country skis are also really skinny and we knew it was still early season (with questionable conditions.)

Downhill skis for the decent worked very well in the end, and Noah had a blast ripping down the steep trail through all the fresh snow.

Skiing down from the Lookout, Kananaskis Lakes below us

Highlight Two: Ice-Skating on the Upper Kananaskis Lake in December

This one can be summed up with the following:

Upper Kananaskis Lake froze (solid enough to skate on) before it became covered in snow. 

This never happens!

It was incredible and we got to skate around two different islands on the lake.

I do not expect to ever have this opportunity again

I never dreamed in a zillion years that I'd get to skate on Upper Kan!

A once in a lifetime opportunity to skate on Upper Kananaskis Lake

Highlight Three: Skiing the Moraine, Fox Creek, Boulton Creek Loop

Of all the little loops you could come up with for a short cross-country ski day in Peter Lougheed, this is my favourite.

We start at the Boulton Bridge Parking Lot, ski up to the Moraine Trail, connect to Fox Creek, tackle the steep double hills on the Elk Pass Trail (up to the power lines and then back down the other side,) and then finish on the Boulton Creek Trail.

Fun skiing on the Moraine, Fox Creek, Boulton Creek Loop

All in, this short loop is 8 km long and a LOT of fun. The trails are narrower than most of the other ski trails in the park (single track set rather than double) and it's fun skiing beside Fox and Boulton Creeks (with a couple of bridge crossings.)

Bridge crossing on Fox Creek

Find out more about cross-country skiing in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park here.

Skiing along the Moraine Trail

Highlight Four: Traversing the Park on Skis from Boulton Creek to Pocaterra 

We were skiing with friends and decided to do a traverse of the park from the Boulton Parking Lot to the Pocaterra Hut at the far end of the park. This would allow us to ski in a favorable direction (with more down than up.)

Fresh corduroy on the Wheeler Trail

The husbands started at Pocaterra, and us moms started at Boulton with the kids. We all met up somewhere around the Amos/Meadow junction and then continued on together back to Pocaterra. And while the men only got to ski half of the traverse, at least we had vehicles waiting at the end.

Trails skied: Wheeler, Meadow, and and then the final "Suicide Hill" on Lodgepole down to the Pocaterra Hut.

Total distance: Approximately 9 km.

Look at all the friends we met up with on the trail!

Highlight Five: Snowshoeing on the Lower Kananaskis Lake

I have a few thoughts on the subject of snowshoeing:

1. You don't need snowshoes on a trail that's been packed down.
   
   
2. Snowshoeing is only fun in powder (and the deeper the better.)
   
   
3. Make snowshoeing "fun" and the kids will love it. Play games, let them make their own trail through an untracked meadow, make snow angels, and take time to play.
   

Snowshoeing along the Lower Kananaskis Lake

We made our snowshoeing adventure on the Lower Lake super fun with a game of pie tag (I tramped out a circle and divided it into sections. To play, stick to the lines as you chase each other,) and with some adventurous cliff jumping.

Playing pie tag on Lower Kananaskis Lake

Cliff jumping over Lower Kananaskis Lake

My son also loved walking across the lake and blazing his own trail through the fresh deep snow.

Kids love making their own trail through fresh deep powder

Read more about snowshoe trails in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park here.

Playful adventures on snowshoes in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Highlight Six: Skiing to the top of Blueberry Hill 

This will be a highlight of my winter because my 9-year old son skied 16 km (return) and climbed 375 metres. I never honestly thought he was capable of anything so big, but he ASKED to ski Blueberry Hill (and that makes all the difference.)

Blueberry Hill Viewpoint

When my son wants to do something, he will be motivated to make it happen. And he was plenty motivated because it was the only "black trail" in the park he hadn't done on skis yet. And he LOVES hills. (The steeper the better.)

One of the best viewpoints you can ski to in Kananaskis

We had a fabulous day and it only took 5 hours (return.) - Gah! So, yeah, it was a looooong day, but he crushed it and we enjoyed a glorious bluebird day for our ski.

Skiing the Elk Pass Trail en route to Blueberry Hill

I love skiing the Elk Pass Trail for scenery like this

To ski up Blueberry Hill, we started at the Elk Pass Parking lot and skied up the Elk Pass Trail until we reached the junction with the Blueberry Hill Trail.

Gorgeous winter wonderland on the Blueberry Hill Trail

Skiing down the Blueberry Hill Trail

Other  Winter Adventures we've enjoyed in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Backcountry Ski Touring to Chester Lake 

Snowshoeing to Rawson Lake 

Early season snowshoeing in Ptarmigan Cirque

Early season snowshoeing at Elbow Lake 

Never a bad day in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

For more information...

Read more about snowshoe trails in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park here.

Find out more about cross-country skiing in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park here.

Parting shot of Lower Kananaskis Lake

Exploring Ribbon Creek in Kananaskis (On Skis!)

Many families will be familiar with the cute little Ribbon Creek Summer Trail, located just below Kananaskis Village off Highway 40. From Calgary it takes less than an hour to reach the trailhead and there's very little height gain as you follow the creek, crossing numerous little bridges.

Ribbon Creek Winter Trail (up above the actual creek)

Ribbon Creek, Summer and Winter

The Ribbon Creek Summer Trail follows the creek for 8.1 km until it reaches Ribbon Falls and the Ribbon Creek backcountry campground. In the winter however, the same trail is only open for 3.7 km (avalanche terrain beyond this point) and is technically a snowshoe trail. (see the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail here.)

The official winter snowshoe trail follows the same summer trail beside the creek, but when the creek is well frozen you can also hike (or ski) down the creek (even under some of the bridges.)

Skiing down Ribbon Creek on the Snowshoe Trail

There is also a separate cross-country ski trail, The Ribbon Creek Winter Trail, that travels high up above the creek and then meets up with the snowshoe trail 0.9 km before the end of the trail.

Follow this link to see a cross-country ski trail map of this area.

The Snowshoe map of Kananaskis is here.

Skiing down the Ribbon Creek Winter Trail

Our Favourite Ski Loop of Ribbon Creek (following the winter + snowshoe trail) 

My son and I came up with an awesome 4.9 km ski loop last winter that we've repeated again this winter.

Starting out on the Ribbon Creek Winter Trail 

From the Ribbon Creek Day Use Area, follow the Hidden Trail for 300 metres until you reach the junction for the Coal Mine Trail. (This is above the creek so do not follow the summer trail. You want to be on the official groomed ski trails.)

Turn left on the Coal Mine Trail, and then climb up to meet the Ribbon Creek Winter Trail in 0.6 km. If you want to take a detour on the Coal Mine Trail, it's a 2.6 km climb to a beautiful viewpoint, and then an amazing descent back down. It took me about an hour to climb up and ten minutes to ski down.

Coal Mine Viewpoint at the end of the trail

Get on the official Ribbon Creek Trail and continue climbing for a short distance to a pretty viewpoint over the valley. The entire trail is 1.2 km until the next junction with the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail down at creek level.

Viewpoint on the Ribbon Creek Winter Trail

The descent down to Ribbon Creek is an exciting one with sharp corners, hairpin turns, and steep bends. Make sure you have confident skiers with you for this one (or take your skis off if it's icy.) This is a good one for powder days as well if you don't want to take the hill with too much speed.

Meet up with the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail 0.9 km before the Link Trail Junction (another ski trail.) The snowshoe trail ends at the Link junction. Most skiers will return to the parking lot on the Link Trail and the Kovach Trail. 

Screaming down the Ribbon Creek Trail

Again, see the official cross-country ski trail map here. You can pick up a copy from any Kananaskis Visitor Centre (there's one at Barrier Lake just before the Village,) and there are also maps everywhere along the trails (so you can't really get lost.)

The Ribbon Creek Winter Trail is an official groomed ski trail

Finishing the Loop on the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail 

I said above that "most" skiers would finish their loop by heading further up the creek and returning on the Link and Kovach SKI trails. Well, we are not "most" skiers.

We actually prefer returning on the snowshoe trail (and in ideal conditions like skiing down the creek under some of the bridges.)

Skiing down the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail

Little needs to be said about this one other than that you should just follow the snowshoe tracks or the summer hiking trail back down to the parking lot in a 2.8 km distance.

Following the creek back to the Ribbon Creek Day Use Area 

If in doubt as to the safety of skiing down the creek, follow the trail just above the creek. It is wide enough for skiing, has a gentle descent (but is relatively flat,) and crosses numerous bridges (fun to ski across.)

Skiing underneath one of the bridges on the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail (official trail uses the bridge)

And if the conditions are right, you'll be able to ski down the stairs off the one bridge. (Otherwise, remove your skis and walk down.)

Total Loop Distance: 4.9 km 

If in doubt, follow the official snowshoe trail rather than skiing down the creek

Recommended Reading for Other Fun Activities in the Kananaskis Village Area

5 Reasons Love Visiting Troll Falls in Winter

Ten Reasons to Spend Time at Kananaskis Village this Winter

Fat Biking with Kids at Kananaskis Village

5 Reasons to Make Nakiska your Local Ski Hill this Winter

Affordable Family Ski Vacations in the Canadian Rockies (Staying at the HI Kananaskis Hostel)

Family Cross Country Ski Trips - Our Favourite Destinations Near Calgary 

Skiing down the Ribbon Creek Snowshoe Trail 

Marmot Basin: A Ski Resort the Whole Family will Love in Jasper National Park

We recently traveled north to Jasper National Park so we could check out the Marmot Basin Ski Resort, my favourite hill back when I was much younger and living in Northern Alberta. I was excited to introduce my son to the first real mountain resort I skied at as a teenager, and to see if the hill was still as amazing as I'd remembered it to be for families.

Standing on top of the world at Marmot Basin Resort, Jasper National Park

An Adventurous Start to the Weekend

From Calgary, Jasper is normally approached via the Icefields Parkway in a 5 hour drive past Lake Louise and the Saskatchewan River Crossing. Unfortunately for us, the mountain parks had just received a large dump of snow before our trip, and the highway got closed for avalanche control on the Jasper side. 

With the Icefields Parkway closed, we were now looking at a 6.5 hour drive through Red Deer and Edson. And if you break the trip down by distance, we would now be driving 200 kilometres further (and definitely out of our way.)

Fortunately, my husband had arranged to take a half day off work for the long drive, but still, 600 kilometres is a long ways to drive for a two-night trip! (Especially since we really didn't know if they'd get the Icefields Parkway open for our return drive on Sunday, or if we'd be doing the extra long drive both ways.)

Driving the Icefields Parkway home from Jasper (thankfully it opened Sunday morning for our return drive)

Add very cold temperatures (Sunday morning was -36 C on the ski hill with wind chill,) and we really did think we were crazy for not bailing on the weekend.

Perseverance being a strong characteristic in our family, we drove the extra distance, we skied through the cold, and we still had a fantastic weekend. Next year we might wait until March though before attempting the long drive to Jasper.

You know it's cold when there's a sundog over the ski hill and ice crystals in the air

Three Initial Things that Stood out to Me about Marmot Basin

1. Marmot Basin is just as beautiful as I'd remembered!
   
   
2. "Old Road" and "Bunny Hop" are still there!! I'd remembered these two beginner runs from my childhood days at Jasper and was hoping they'd still be there (purely for nostalgia sake.) And I'm not alone either on this one; a friend found out I'd been to Marmot and her first question was whether Old Road was still there.
   
   
3. The Parking is still super easy with ski in/out lots located off the School House beginner runs. I was sad to see that the cute little Caribou Chair had been retired though.

Introducing my son to his mom's favourite runs as a child

A Ski Resort the Whole Family Will Love (from newbies to extreme skiers)

Highlights for Beginners:

• A true beginner chair, School House Chair, with two easy green runs off of it, access to the main lodge at the bottom, and conveniently located beside the parking lots for ski in/out access. And it replaced the old T-bar so beginners can  enjoy the slow beginner-friendly chairlift instead! My son loved the School House Rollers (a mini terrain park of sorts.)
  
  
• There is a tiny magic carpet and bunny hill perfect for toddlers or the complete first timer.
  
  
• "Old Road" off the Eagle Express Quad! Seriously, this might be one of the easiest green runs in the Canadian Rockies (resembling a wide road that I'd enjoy on my cross-country skis,) and there are awesome tree runs for the kids off this road as well (think mini luge tracks for short skis.)
  
  
• Everything off the Eagle Express Quad. Bunny Hop, Old Road, Sleepy Hollow... - nothing scary about the names or the runs. These are some of the best green runs I've seen at a resort and gave me confidence when I was learning to ski as a kid.
  
  
• There's an easy way off every chairlift at Marmot (even off the summit/Knob chair if you take the blue traverse,) and so the whole family can ski together. This means beginners aren't stuck skiing on the lower mountain while the rest of the family leaves them behind.
  
  
• There is something for all abilities and preferences of skiing off each chairlift. We loved this as a family because we'd all ride up together and then split up to ski something fun or comfortable for each of us. My boys could go off to explore a black bump run, leaving me to make my way down a groomed run, all of us meeting again at the bottom of the chair to ride back up the mountain again.

What you'll find at the top of each chairlift at Jasper! Selection for all abilities

Highlights for "Advanced Beginner" and Intermediate Skiers:

• Marmot has lots of groomed terrain (even on black advanced runs,) and I appreciated the lack of steep pitches I find at many ski hills. Most runs had a consistent grade throughout.
  
  
• Groomed intermediate runs like "Fresh Tracks," "Paradise," or "Tranquilizer" would be green runs at many other resorts, giving the intermediate skier a very comfortable skiing experience. I could fly down these runs with complete confidence.
  
  
• Groomed black runs, Highway 16 was my favourite and is pictured below, that would be a blue run at most other hills - again providing the intermediate skier with a positive ski experience. (I left the hill feeling like a superstar skier.)
  
  
• I appreciated that there was an easy intermediate traverse off of the Knob Chair so I could follow my boys to the top of the mountain.
  
  
• Runs at Marmot tend to be very wide, allowing for great turns and carving practice.
  
  
• Lots of trees for kids to play in! My son loved the treed luge runs off "Old Road" and also had fun playing in the trees alongside most of the beginner runs.
  
  
• Lots of easy bump runs for those wanting to take things up a notch and try playing around on low angled slopes. My son also loved the wide open bowls off the Knob Chair with their easy escape routes back onto the groomed traverse

Jasper has fabulous grooming and consistent grades on wide open runs 

Highlights for Advanced Skiers:

• Trees everywhere! I couldn't keep my son out of them.
  
  
• Lots of fresh ungroomed snow for those who don't like the grooming I'm always chasing
  
  
• My husband loved the double black runs off Eagle East and said it was his favourite part of the hill
  
  
• Great bowls that would be a dream in fresh powder!
  
  
• Unlimited opportunities for fresh tracks on powder days if you're willing to climb for them. My boys climbed up the "Peak Run" off the top of the Knob Chair and then skied down into the bowl below. (And that's just one of the many runs that you can "bootpack" your way up if you're willing to earn fresh turns.)
  
  
• The brand new "Tres Hombres" area off the Paradise Quad Chair - full of steep double black chutes

Below is the photo sequence of my boys climbing up and skiing down one of the "hike up" runs off the Knob Chair (with avalanche control but without chairlift access to the top.) - And there are many areas like this at Marmot Basin where you can climb higher from the top of the lifts to enjoy fresh tracks in avalanche controlled terrain.

Ready for some climbing!

My boys Bootpacking their way up the Peak Run

On top  and ready to ski down fresh powder to the bowl below

The descent down the bowl (and remember, there is no chairlift taking you up here)

And, for those who love Terrain Parks:

Marmot Basin has THREE Terrain Parks. That's right! And you can hit all three in one descent from the top of the Canadian Rockies Express Quad.

Terrain parks are natural kid magnets

Marmot in a Nutshell

The whole family can ski together on the entire mountain as long as you have confident advanced-beginner or intermediate skiers. You'll find variety at all levels off every lift.

An easy way down from the top of the mountain

Riding the Knob Chair to the Summit

Tips for Skiing Marmot Basin

Just a few tips to make your ski experience easier:

• Arrive before 8:45am and make your way to one of the upper ski in/ski out parking lots off the School House Chair. There's NO need to use the bottom drop off zone. (It just gets congested and is way too busy.)
  
  
• Carry a small backpack to the mid mountain lodge, hang it on a hook, and make that your home base for the day. Avoid the main base area (which gets very crowded and unpleasantly busy.)
  
  
•  Avoid eating and drinking on the hill (which all ski families will know saves a LOT of money!) Pack lunches in your backpack that you'll leave at the mid mountain lodge, and bring your own packages of apple cider, hot chocolate, and even coffee if you can. Bring your own water bottles too and fill them in the lodge.

You can imagine how busy it was inside the main lodge at the bottom of the hill

The Mountain Town that Captured My Heart

Growing up in Northern Alberta, Jasper was our closest mountain town, and the one we visited the most for family getaways, ski trips, and summer vacations. It was only natural that I grew to love this town (and national park,) so much so that my husband and I actually got married in Jasper.

Now with a family of my own, we try to visit Jasper at least once or twice a year and it always feels like home. (And, some day we dream of retiring here.)

Marmot Basin has no accommodations on the ski hill, so if you plan a visit to Jasper you can expect to be lodging down in the Town, a short 20 km drive away. And while I normally love ski in/ski out accommodations, there's something to be said for spending the night in a quaint little ski town as well.

Adventure is everywhere in Jasper

Spend a few days in Jasper and you can expect the following:


Variety of accommodations for all budgets from hostels to motels, inns and lodges, and luxurious resorts

Most skiers will choose something in the middle here (of which Jasper has many options.)

We stayed at the Crimson Inn, a newly renovated property under the ownership of Mountain Park Lodges, and liked that it was located right on the main street, close to restaurants and stores. I was also appreciative that our room was quiet (no ski party noise,) and that there was a restaurant on site for a quick breakfast before heading out to the ski hill in the morning.


Plentiful options for dining

A few favourites that we've tried:

For Breakfast - Coco's Cafe is an awesome breakfast diner for fueling up before heading to the ski hill. It is also Vegetarian, Vegan, and Celiac friendly

For a Casual Lunch or Dinner - We love the Jasper Brewing Company, a family-friendly restaurant with a pub-type feel (and you can try the locally brewed beers while there!)

For Pizza - We just discovered Famoso and loved the Neapolitan style pizza there.

For Coffee - There's nothing better than the Bear's Paw Bakery (with the biggest assortment of baked goods I've ever seen at a coffee shop.)

Highly recommended for breakfast in Jasper

Options galore for a multi-sport winter adventure weekend! 

I'm still working on a "best of Jasper" winter edition story, but in the meantime, below are a few recommended winter activities near the Town of Jasper:

• Skating on Pyramid Lake
  
  
• Hiking frozen Maligne Canyon (and in winter you can hike down inside the canyon on a guided, or self-guided, ice walk)
  
  
• Cross-country skiing, snowshoeing, or fat biking on the local town trails
  

For full information, please visit the Tourism Jasper website.

Hiking frozen Maligne Canyon

Additional Reading on our Adventures in Jasper

Winter Escape to Jasper National Park 

The Wildest Winter Canyon Hike in the Canadian Rockies

Spring Adventures in Jasper

Experiencing Awesome in Jasper National Park

Our Top Ten Favourite Things to do in Jasper

Autumn Adventure Weekend in Jasper 

And for more information on the ski resort, please visit the Marmot Basin website directly.

Easy family-friendly skiing at Marmot Basin Ski Resort

Thank you to Tourism Jasper and to Marmot Basin for partnering with us to make this weekend happen. As always, all opinions in this story are my own.