Easy Family Paddling Day Trip on the Bow River through Banff

The Bow River can be challenging for novice paddlers, but there is a great beginner section upriver of the Town of Banff heading back into town. It's a beautiful day trip and a shuttle is easy to set up. Largely a float trip, you can even use a stand up paddleboard on this section of the river if you have experience with gentle moving water.

Easy floating down the Bow River in Banff National Park

Let's Talk "Beginner-friendly"

Before I get to the big questions you'll have on where to put in and take out, I want to quickly start with a safety disclaimer.

When I say that this is an "easy" paddling day trip, I mean that this is an easy river trip compared to other sections of the Bow River that are much more challenging. I don't mean that this should be your very first paddling trip ever.

You'll enjoy this trip if:

• You have some experience on gentle moving water. (There are no rapids and it's class 1 paddling, but it's still moving water.)
  
  
• You know how to launch a boat and steer to shore in moving water.
  
  
• You know how to navigate corners, bends, and twists in a river, you know how to avoid the occasional sweeper, and you can avoid the pillars on a bridge while passing under.
  
  
• You have previous river experience in a canoe or kayak, and want to try using a stand up paddleboard on moving water (and you are not new to stand up paddle boarding.)
  
  
• You are a novice paddler going in a group of stronger paddlers willing to assist and guide you on the river.
  
  

Children should either be in a canoe or kayak with an adult, or else they should be strong paddlers on flat water if they're going to use their own kayak or stand up paddleboard. When in doubt, paddle this section of the Bow River as adults first before bringing your kids. 

My son first did this trip in a tandem kayak while building his skills in a sit on top kayak (which he used on lakes and very gentle moving water.) We were in a large supportive group the first time he tried paddling the river on his own in his kayak. Now at age 12, he uses a stand up paddleboard (which he learned to use on flat water first.)

Strong youth can use stand up paddleboards with previous experience 

The Shuttle:  Where to park for the put in and take out

The put in location is located approximately 6 km west of the Town of Banff. Continue on the TransCanada Highway past the Mount Norquay/Banff Townsite turnoff in the direction of Lake Louise.

You will come to the junction for the Hwy 1A (Bow Valley Parkway) and this is where you start paying attention. Shortly after this junction, you will cross the Bow River on the TransCanada Hwy bridge and then see a pull out on the right hand side of the highway. This is where you park and access the river via a gate in the wildlife fence.

It's very straight forward and as long as you are going westbound on the TransCanada Hwy, the parking pullout is easy to find as soon as you cross the bridge over the river.

This is the link to the put in spot on Google Maps.

Paddling near the put in spot, just past the TransCanada Highway Bridge

For the take out, there are a few options:

1. Leave a second vehicle wherever you can find a spot near the Banff Canoe Club on Bow Ave in the Town of Banff or near Central Park in the large parking lot there. You can also park at the Banff Recreation Grounds which is a great spot to take your boat out of the water (with a large parking lot.) Just make sure you take out before going under the Banff Ave bridge in town lest you go over Bow Falls!
   
   
2. Leave a second vehicle parked beside the First Vermilion Lake on Vermilion Lakes Road in the Town of Banff. (This is the first lake you'll come to.) If you're parking here, you'll be able to extend your paddle from the Bow River to Vermilion Lake via Echo and 40 Mile Creeks. (more information below.)
   
   
3. Leave a bike at either option above and have an adult bike back for the vehicle. If doing this, I'd recommend leaving the bike on Vermilion Lakes Road. From here you continue biking to the end of the road, and hop on the Legacy Trail which ends at the junction with the Highway 1A. There's a short 0.5 km section of highway riding from there to reach your put in spot. (So send an adult ahead for this part and leave the kids with a second adult in town.)

This is the take out spot at the Banff Recreation Grounds near the Banff Avenue Bridge in town

Paddling the Bow River into the Town of Banff 

There are a few tricky spots in the first 15 minutes as you navigate a few tight corners with sweepers (logs that stick out from the corners) before passing under the TransCanada Highway bridge. This first part of the trip actually has fast moving water and can be scary for novice paddlers. You also have to be able to steer around the bridge pillars and then make a sharp turn.

After that it is a fun little float back into town and we've had lots of children use sit on top kayaks or even stand up paddleboards.

The trip is easy enough for kids in sit on top kayaks 

After you clear the first few corners, you pretty much have to paddle the entire time or the trip will take many hours.  It's one of those float trips where you could actually paddle upstream from the Canoe Club in town and then float back down afterwards. (Something people do all the time!)

My son has said this paddle is "boring" in the past which is good news for novice paddlers. It means there are no rapids and there's no fast moving water.

For more excitement, try it with a tail wind from the west. Our fastest time was 90 minutes when we were surfing down the river on our paddle boards. (We didn't have to do much actual paddling this time.) 

The river also upgrades to "moderate" when the river is high. Pay attention to river advisories because the first 15 minutes can be tricky when the water is moving quickly.

Stand up paddling down the Bow River into the town of Banff 

I love that we can do this trip as a family and nobody is worried about falling in the river. It's a good stretch for children to try their first solo river paddle (provided they have plenty of lake experience) and you'll have lots of time to just chill and float along. When you get tired of floating, pick up your paddles and slowly move towards town.

Opportunities are plentiful for wildlife sightings on the river as well. We've seen both moose and elk along this stretch.

Floating down the Bow River into the Town of Banff 

Notes for choosing which kind of boat to use:

• If you try to use a raft you'll have to paddle most of the time or else plan for a full day. Even then, I don't think you'll make it into town without using your paddles. If you want to use a raft, consider doing the next section from Banff to Canmore instead because it is much faster.
  
  
• Sit on top kayaks are great for kids that have previous paddling experience. I'd recommend bringing a rope though because most children will get tired of paddling before they reach town. You'll end up towing them for sure!!
  
  Also, make sure your child knows how to steer and navigate a kayak before sending them down the river. They'll have to get around the bridge pillars passing under the highway bridge and they'll have to steer to shore to get off the river.
  
  And make sure you keep in mind that the water is glacial in temperature. I suggest the kids wear rain pants or wetsuits if using a sit on top kayak. And bring a change of clothes in case they fall in.
  
  
• Stand up paddleboards are great for older youth or adults who have experience with gentle moving water. Again, remember that the water is glacial in temperature. Pack spare clothes, towels, and a rope in case you end up needing to tow a child.
  
  
• Canoes or tandem kayaks are perfect for this trip.

This is a great family outing with friends 

Extending the trip to the First Vermilion Lake 

As you enter the Town of Banff, you'll see the boat docks along Bow Avenue where the Banff Canoe Club rents boats. Either head right towards the Banff Recreation Grounds to take out, take out at the canoe club, or continue past the canoe club where you'll be following a gentle creek.

Paddling up Echo Creek towards the First Vermilion Lake 

Echo Creek heads up stream at this point, connecting with 40 Mile Creek further up. The current is relatively gentle so you'll usually have no problems making your way up the creek. The exception would be if there is a head wind on the creek. 

I strongly recommend checking the wind direction before planning to paddle up the creek. We've had challenging times trying to get up the creek on paddleboards in the past when the wind was in our faces. It can also be hard to try to get into Vermilion Lake with a head wind.

Choose a calm day if you're going to do this extension.

We love paddling along peaceful Echo Creek towards the Vermilion Lakes 

Pass under the train bridge and you'll see 40 Mile Creek coming in from your right within 15 - 20 minutes. Head left as the creek empties you out into the First Vermilion Lake (where hopefully you have a car or a bike waiting.)

This channel takes you from the creek into Vermilion Lake 

Once you reach the lake, you can paddle around on the lake enjoying the views of Mount Rundle behind you. You can also follow a channel beside the road that takes you to the second lake. There is no way I've ever found to connect to the third lake.

The Vermilion Lakes are a great place to paddle with children

Safety Notes

• While I've focused on this paddling adventure being "beginner friendly" I would advise practicing on calm lakes before heading out on moving water.
  
  
• The Bow River is glacial fed and as such is freezing cold if you fall in. Be prepared with a change of clothes for each person in a dry bag. I also recommend bringing some warm socks in the dry bag in case anybody gets cold feet (especially those on paddleboards.)
  
  
• Kids using sit on top kayaks should be dressed in rain pants and waterproof clothing (rain jackets, polyester pants and shirts, etc.) These boats tend to pool with water causing kids to get cold quickly. While this might not be necessary if it's 30 degrees outside, you'll appreciate the warm clothing on cool days.
  
  
• Bring a rope for towing if you have children paddling in their own boats. (Don't use a rope until you're past the first bridge.)
  
  
• Bring the normal safety gear required by the government (a throw rope, bailing device, and whistle is technically required in each vessel.)
  
  
• Life jackets or PFDs should be worn by each person.
  
  
• Paddle in a group so you can help one another in the event of an emergency.
  
  
• Make sure any pets that come along feel comfortable in a boat! You don't want Fido to jump overboard.
  
  
• Choose warm weather. I've done this paddle on a cold day before, and it's much more pleasant when you don't have to float down the river wearing a toque!
  
  
• I always pack rain jackets in a dry bag just in case somebody falls in and needs to warm up - even if it's 30 degrees outside.
  
  
• Watch the wind!!! This river has many twists and turns so you'll almost always have a head wind for one or two sections. On our last trip the wind was from the west which is about as good as you can get. We flew and felt like we were surfing on our boards. By contrast, we've had a wicked head wind in the past that was miserable to paddle against. 

Disclaimer: As of 2021 there are new restrictions for non-motorized vessels on all lakes and rivers in Banff National Park. Find more information on self-certification before your trip here. 

First SUP paddle down the Bow, age 11 

Family Touring around Nelson and the West Kootenays, British Columbia

We'd been wanting to spend some time camping in the West Kootenay area of British Columbia for years now. We finally added it to the calendar this summer and chose to camp near Nelson so that we could spent lots of time at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park (even if we couldn't get a campsite there.)

The amazing Sandspit Beach at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park

By staging our West Kootenay summer vacation out of the Nelson area, we would also be able to try biking a new rail trail, we'd get the opportunity to paddle a section of the TransCanada Trail, and we'd be super close to Ainsworth Hot Springs (my favourite hot springs in all of BC.)

Biking across a trestle bridge on the Great Northern Rail Trail outside Nelson

Below are our highlights from four nights camping in the Nelson area this past summer.

Beach Time at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park

We had hoped to camp at Kokanee Creek Provincial Park but apparently you can't show up on a Saturday of a long weekend or even make a reservation unless you can commit to being there on Friday as well. We were coming from Kelowna and unfortunately had planned poorly to be arriving in the middle of the August long weekend. Fortunately for us, there are tons of private campgrounds around and so we camped 10 minutes away from Kokanee Creek, and made day trips to Sandspit Beach.

A little sandy island in the middle of Kootenay Lake, Sandspit Beach

The highlight of our time in the West Kootenays was spending afternoons at Sandspit Beach in Kokanee Creek Provincial Park. True to its name, there is a giant sandspit stretching out into Kootenay Lake. You can walk out into the lake for several hundred metres before the water goes anywhere near knee deep.

My  boys running across Kootenay Lake (the beach way in the background)

It was absolutely surreal to be able to walk across a lake, to be able to play games of catch or tag in the middle of the lake, and to just have fun playing in the extremely shallow water. Step off the sandspit though, and the water immediately plunged much deeper.

This was in the middle of Kootenay Lake on the Sandspit

My son made a friend at the beach and the boys loved playing on their own little private island they found out on the sandspit. They built sand castles and fortresses, and I created my own little hot tub. It was magical and we can't wait to go back next summer!

Our own private island in the middle of Kokanee Lake

Biking the Great Northern Rail Trail

One of our summer goals was to bike a new rail trail. Lucky for us, there are several to choose from in the West Kootenays.

Riding across a trestle bridge between Cottonwood Lake and Nelson

We decided to do a section of the Great Northern Rail Trail from Cottonwood Lake down to Nelson. This is a section of the TransCanada trail that crosses our entire country. The biggest challenge in the end was finding information on the trail.

Through a combined assortment of resources and research, I finally put together some basic beta on this ride.

Cottonwood Lake to Nelson: Cottonwood Lake to the parking lot at the top of Elwyn Street in Nelson - 8 km one way at a 3% rail grade all downhill.

We enjoyed awesome downhill coasting from Cottonwood Lake to Nelson (we barely had to pedal) and we were in town in no time! We "truck dropped" the trail with my husband riding back up to get the truck once we reached the Nelson city limits. (which made my son and I very happy.)

On our ride we crossed 3 trestle bridges (of note because the Visitor Centre told me there were none on this section!)

One of the trestle bridges we rode over on our way to Nelson

While waiting for my husband to meet us at the parking lot at the top of Elwyn Street in town, my son and I decided to ride a little bit further to see how far we could get towards Troup Beach (the end of the trail.)

Nelson to Troup Beach: Starting at the top of Elwyn Street in town, it is an 8 km ride one way downhill to Troup. This is again rail grade, and you'll have to bike back up again because there is no parking lot or road access for Troup Beach.

The bridges were definitely a highlight of the ride

We rode 6 km towards Troup Beach, stopping a couple kilometres short of the end. We rode over 3 more trestle bridges (for a total of 6 bridges) and then turned around to bike back up to Elwyn. The return ride was uphill, but never steep. It was very doable for my son and I, and we never struggled with the easy rail grade.

In total, I'd estimate we rode 20 km and only had to bike 6 km uphill. The rest was all down. (and note, I use the word "estimate" because I didn't have anything on me tracking our distance, and I've found conflicting numbers in my research.)

Happy Biker on the Great Northern Rail Trail

The Rosemont Mountain Bike Park in Nelson

We love visiting mountain bike parks, skills parks, and pump tracks when we travel. And the one in Nelson was something else!

The Rosemont Bike Park was rather "Epic" for a bike park. And I'd highly suggest elbow and knee padding for the kids (possibly a full face helmet.)

Flowy downhill riding at the Rosemont Mountain Bike Park in Nelson

This park has a nice pump track but it would be very dangerous to just play around on it without starting at the very top of the park and riding down. Older riders bike up a steep course to ride down one of several mountain bike trails, ending at the pump track (which they circle before finishing.) If you have young children wanting to just play on the pump track, make sure no older kids are riding down from above.

This park is basically a miniature "downhill mountain bike park" as you'd see at a ski resort. (without a chairlift.) Ride up, choose your path, and bike down. Repeat multiple times.

Riding down one of the intermediate features at the bike park

There are many different technical trail features, wooden features, and paths to choose from. (all rated as beginner, intermediate, or advanced.)

There is also a really fun skate park beside the mountain bike park. My son enjoyed riding on both.

The Rosemont Skatepark, Nelson

Paddling on Kootenay Lake - TransCanada Trail Paddle Route

Most people don't realize that the TransCanada Trail, a fabulous network that crosses our entire country, is made up of both land and marine sections. And while we've hiked several sections of the trail network, we had never paddled a section until this trip out to Nelson.

Kayaking along the West Arm Paddle Route outside of Nelson

We kayaked a very short section of the West Arm Paddle Route between Balfour Bay and Kokanee Creek Provincial Park. In total, this route is 29.63 km from Balfour to Nelson. And some day it would be fun to do the whole thing.

Kayaking from Balfour Bay along Kootenay Lake

I would have loved to have done our short outing on my stand up paddleboard, but I had a shoulder injury I was dealing with the whole time we were in Nelson, and so had to content myself with playing princess in the bow of our tandem kayak.

Kayaking down Kootenay Lake from Balfour towards Nelson

Ainsworth Hot Springs

The Ainsworth Hot Springs Resort was at the top of my list for places I wanted to visit on our trip. While I always love hot springs, I especially enjoy these ones because of the natural cave located beside the hottest pool. You can swim/walk through the cave, crawl up into little rocky nooks (giving you a sauna type experience,) and stand under a hot waterfall inside the horseshoe shaped cave. It's truly a magical experience to walk through a cave filled with hot mineral water!

Standing in the hot pool at Ainsworth in the entrance to the natural cave

I also like that the water at the Ainsworth Hot Springs is actually HOT. I find some hot spring pools to be too chilly for my liking. Ainsworth however, has three different pools, and the hottest one is just perfect for me at 42 degrees Celsius. (the same temperature as it is in the cave.)

For those who don't want a prolonged soak in 42 degree water, there is also a main lounging pool that's only 35 degrees Celsius. (much more comfortable for extended soaking.)

And, in between walking through the cave, soaking in the hot pool, or relaxing in the main pool, one definitely has to take a quick dip in the plunge pool (with water straight from nearby Munn Creek, and freezing cold!)

Note: Check the Ainsworth website before planning your trip. They are not open every day. It's also best to arrive early because entry is FCFS, and it gets very busy!  

Paradise at Ainsworth Hot Springs

We only had four nights in the Nelson area, so we only covered a very small amount of activities that one can actually do in this area of the West Kootenays. For more information or travel suggestions, consider visiting the Nelson Kootenay Lake Tourism website.

Parting shot of Kokanee Creek Provincial Park and Sandspit Beach

Continue the Adventure! Discover more of the West Kootenays from Kaslo to Nakusp

Read: The Ultimate 5-Day West Kootenays Road Trip

My most recent guide, published in 2024 covers three different hot springs you  can visit around Nakusp, epic mountain bike trails including one that descends from the top of a historic fire lookout site, another rail trail, this one with a cable car crossing over a river, incredible sandy beaches, and a beautiful lakeside campground. 

Discover more of the West Kootenays around Nakusp!

Disclaimer:  This trip was not sponsored by any tourism bureau, park, or business. All opinions are my own.

Find us in the River - Camp Life at Writing on Stone Provincial Park

We decided to plan a long weekend camping trip to Writing on Stone Provincial Park over the Canada Day weekend at the beginning of July. With a 3.5 to 4 hour drive from Calgary, it was an ideal destination for a three-night getaway, and we wanted to spend two days paddling on the Milk River.

Camp Life at Writing on Stone Provincial Park on the Milk River

Our plans for the weekend included two days kayaking and stand up paddleboarding on the Milk River, lots of hiking through the hoodoos and badlands scenery, and a guided tour to see the first nations rock art that has made this park a national historic site.

Hiking in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Making the Most of a Summer Scorcher - IN the River

What we didn't know when we booked our trip was that it would be 30+ degrees Celsius the whole time we were at Writing on Stone, and that we'd pretty much spend our whole weekend IN the river. It was too hot to be on the river, to spend much time hiking through the badlands, or to take a walking tour. While we still tried to get out for some hikes, and we committed to the tour we'd booked, our favourite highlights were the hours we spent swimming in the river.

Beach life at Writing on Stone Provincial Park

We now know how awesome this campground is for those hot "summer scorchers," and the beach at Writing on Stone has become our new favourite beach in Alberta. We had swim noodles with us and spent a lot of time floating down the gentle river from one end of the beach to the other. The kids also loved the sand and mud at the beach.

Surviving a summer scorcher at the Writing on Stone Beach

While it would have been fun to have been able to spend more time hiking, we loved swimming and floating down the Milk River, playing in the mud, and chilling at the beach. This is how summer camping trips become GREAT and we'll be back for sure!

Floating from one end of the beach to the other with the gentle river current

Paddling the Milk River

We spent two half-days leisurely floating down the Milk River through spectacular sandstone cliffs. We watched cliff sparrows flying out of their nests along the rivers, we stopped to swim and to play in the mud, and we tested just how many different kinds of vessels we could send down the river.

Stand up paddleboarding down the Milk River past Sandstone cliffs

In two days of paddling, we used a combination of  stand up paddleboards, kayaks, canoes, and tubes. All worked well, but the tubes were definitely the slowest. Aim to have somebody towing kids in tubes if you want to go this route.

This is a great river for kids learning to paddle!

Writing on Stone Campground to Deer Creek Bridge

This was a short 8 km float and was well suited to novice paddlers. We had kids floating in tubes, one paddling his own sit on top kayak, and a mom navigating her first river on a stand up paddleboard. Nobody had any problems, and there were only a couple of "rough" sections where we passed over a few mild rapids/riffles. The tubes were fine and nobody tipped.

River life in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Expect 3 hours on the river if you want to stop lots and if you aren't paddling much. (Especially if you have tubes with you.)

Relaxing  floating from camp to the Deer Creek Bridge on the Milk River

Weir Bridge to Writing on Stone Campground

This was a 10 km paddle according to maps in the campground and I can't really recommend doing this stretch in tubes. It's best done with an actual boat that you can steer. There were a few sweepers, one side channel you really wouldn't have wanted to go down by mistake, some rough sections with small rapids, and shallow patches with rocks.

Canoeing the Milk River from the Weir Bridge to Writing on Stone

 We did fine on stand up paddleboards but you couldn't just float blindly down the river. The kids also did fine in their own kayaks but a bit of experience paddling on a river would be recommended.  Still, it was a great river trip for novice paddlers wanting to try some easy moving water.

Kids kayaking down the Milk River to Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Both of our paddles took us roughly 3 to 4 hours because we stopped a lot. We also didn't hurry, and we floated a lot.

Weir Bridge to Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Floating the River through the Writing on Stone Campground 

When we weren't paddling down the river, we still enjoyed floating through camp in tubes. The camp store sells small tubes (or bring your own,) and you can jump in at the top of the campground by the playground. Float down to the beach in a leisurely 10 minute float, and then repeat. This could amuse kids ALL day long.

Floating down the river through the campground at Writing on Stone

Hiking through the Badlands in the Writing on Stone Campground

We hiked two trails while camping at Writing on Stone and tried to make sure we were on the trails early in the morning or later in the evening to avoid some of the heat.

Lookout over the Milk River Valley from the Hoodoo Trail in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

The Hoodoo Trail

This trail starts at the Group Campground by the playground and is 2.2 km in length (one way.)

"The Hoodoo Trail winds through various landscapes - hoodoos, sandstone cliffs and rock art, upland prairie grasslands, the Milk River valley and coulees. The trail has undulating terrain, stairs and steep sections. The trail can be very hot. Be sure to wear a hat and carry water. Please stay on the trail. This trail is NOT stroller or wheelchair accessible." (Alberta Parks)

The trail leads you to the Battle Scene viewpoint where you can see native rock art, protected behind a cage. To see more rock art, and to get closer to the petroglyphs and pictographs, you'll need to take a guided tour into the private reserve.

Fascinating scenery on the Hoodoo Trail in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

The Visitor Centre Trail

Scrambling around on the Visitor Centre Trail

This trail starts beside the campground store and takes you up to the visitor centre on a steep trail with plenty of opportunities for scrambling in the hoodoos.

We like this trail because families can climb and scramble all over the cliffs, play in secret little coulees, and explore the rugged terrain. I do encourage caution though with young kids because the rock is slippery. My son has taken a couple of falls while here.

Our Guided Rock Art Tour

This was the third hike that we took, and this one allowed us to go inside the private reserve. I'll be honest and say that we preferred our guided tour in Dinosaur Provincial Park, finding it to be more interesting for children. The rock art tour seemed to appeal to adults with an interest in history and ancient culture.

A friend took the tour and enjoyed it with her children, but they were the only people signed up for their tour, allowing the guide to move at a faster pace. Our tour group was larger and we stopped for at least 10 - 15 minutes at each wall to discuss the rock art, a pace that was too slow for the kids in our group.

I am happy that we got to see some of the ancient petroglyphs and pictographs though, and did find that we got a deeper appreciation for this fascinating park and it's rick history.

Ancient First Nations Rock Art in the Private Reserve

 

Want to Visit Writing on Stone Provincial Park with your Family?

Visit the Alberta Parks website for more information on camping, hiking, and exploring in Writing on Stone Provincial Park. 

You can also read my previous story from our last visit a few years ago:  Camping in Writing on Stone Provincial Park. 

Reservations for camping can be made on line. Guided Tours can also be booked on line.

Finally, the campground also offers comfort camping if you'd rather camp in a canvas wall tent.  Comfort campsites can be booked on the reservation site along with regular campsites.

There are also two group sites here if you'd like to camp with a group of 5+ families.

Playing in the hoodoos along the Visitor Centre Trail

Disclaimer: I am an Alberta Parks Ambassador and receive free camping and guided tours. As always, all opinions are my own.