Showing posts with label Columbia Icefields. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Columbia Icefields. Show all posts

Monday, August 12, 2019

Bow Hut Family Alpine Adventure, Banff National Park

The Alpine Club of Canada has an amazing network of backcountry huts and cabins, and we try to hike in to one new hut each summer as a family. We enjoy the remote locations for each hut, the amazing scenery that we get to explore hiking to our destination, and the comfort that comes with sleeping in a warm dry cabin.

The Alpine Club of Canada's Bow Hut, Banff National Park 


Searching for a New Backcountry Hut to Visit this Summer 


It's getting increasingly challenging to find new destinations close to Calgary that that don't require a multi-day road trip just to reach the trailhead. Many of the huts also require glacier travel or significant mountaineering experience, which eliminates them for the time being with a 10 year old.

 - To see a full list of the other huts we've already visited (with links to the stories I've written) scroll to the bottom of this guide.

One new hut that was well within our abilities with a ten year old child was the Bow Hut perched on the edge of the Wapta Icefield along the Icefields Parkway between Lake Louise and Jasper. And, we've actually attempted to reach this hut several times, but have always been rained out and ended up canceling. - which actually wasn't much different this time except that we gambled on a bad weather forecast, committed to the trip, and won with much better conditions than expected.

It was a soggy hike in, but we reached the hut in time for the sun to come out


Information and Stats for Visiting the Bow Hut


General Location: On the east side of the Wapta Icefield, above Bow Lake in Banff National Park

Trailhead: Bow Lake on the Icefields Parkway

Hiking Distance from Bow Lake to the Hut: 8 kilometres one way with 400 metres height gain

Time it took us to reach the hut: It took us 4 hours to reach the hut on the way in (3 hours on the way out)

Hiking in on the Bow Lake Trail


Difficulty of the hiking trail: The approach is not a hard one, but you do have to cross a giant chockstone (the crux of the trail because a fall would be fatal) which you'll see a photo of below. The trail is also a mountaineering access route (the hut was built to allow climbers to reach the glacier and peaks above) so expect some route finding once you leave the official hiking trail for Bow Glacier Falls.

For a complete route description follow this link to the ACC website.

Crossing the giant chockstone en route to the Bow Hut

Cost to spend the night: $30 per night for Alpine Club of Canada members, $40 for non-members. Children are half price. A wilderness pass is also required for each adult at a rate of $9.75 per night.

Booking spaces: Follow this link to make a reservation. A booking can be made up to a year in advance if you are a member. (30 days for non-members)

Sleeping Capacity of the hut: 30 people in a shared sleeping room (the room is divided into upper and lower sleeping platforms - like large bunk beds)

Hiking up the rough trail above the Bow Glacier Falls turnoff 

Layout of this hut:

This is one of the BEST ACC HUTS for layout!! There are two separate rooms (one for sleeping, and one for eating/cooking/socializing) and they are separated by a long hallway to keep the bedroom nice and quiet.

Both rooms are on the same level so you don't have the issue of hot air rising and people suffocating in the loft while others are freezing on the main level huddled around the fireplace.

The outhouse is also reached from the inside just off the hallway so you don't have to go outside in the middle of the night.

The hut has two separate rooms for sleeping and eating with a hallway connecting them


What to bring with you: 

Guests at an ACC hut have to bring their own sleeping bags, food, basic overnight gear, headlamps, and slippers or inside shoes. Other than that, the hut comes equipped with sleeping mattresses, propane stove tops (with a full size propane oven) and lanterns, cooking supplies and all dishes, and the bathrooms were stocked with toilet paper. There is also a wood fireplace which helps to dry wet clothes.

Other than that, consider this a backpacking trip and plan your food accordingly. (There is no fridge at the hut.) You'll also have to boil water to drink or bring a water filter for the creek.

There were lots of creek crossings on the way in! 

Hiking in to the Bow Hut 


Our hike in took about 4 hours and was pretty soggy towards the end (we arrived at the hut soaking wet.) Honestly though, it could have been worse and it only really started raining in our last half hour.

Climbing the stairs up towards the Bow Glacier Falls turnoff from the lake 

My husband and I knew the route well so there were no challenges with directions, but we knew it would be a little scary getting our son across the giant chockstone, so we'd brought a short length of rope and his harness for this section. My husband belayed him across to ensure complete safety (you only get one shot at raising your kids and bringing them to adulthood in one piece.)

And while the chockstone may not look that "bad" from the photos, it's super hard to get up onto it from the approach side (as you can see the big climb up in the photo below) and a fall off the top would be fatal.

A photo of the chockstone crossing from our hike out 

Other than that, the only other challenge came with the frequent creek crossings but we were pros at this by the end. (I recommend good waterproof footwear and hiking poles!)

One of the creek crossings on our hike out 

Day Trip Plans from the Hut 


We were originally planning to spend two nights at the hut until the weather forecast convinced us to just do a shorter one-night trip. In hindsight, the weather ended up being better than expected once we reached the hut and we could have spent the full two nights.

In a full day from the hut, there are many options for exploring. We had been hoping to do an easy glacier traverse to summit Mt. Thompson (an easy walk up mountaineering objective) with another family. The other family pulled out of from the trip though after seeing the weather forecast, and so we chose to do something easier.

For families wanting to explore around the hut (without getting on the glacier) there are a couple of fun options which include visiting an ice cave and hiking to the top of a nearby family-friendly summit called the Onion.

There are several fun options for families wanting to explore around the hut without getting on the glacier 


Climbing the "Onion" from Bow Hut 


This is the most popular objective for most hikers looking for a non-technical summit to reach from the hut. Pretty much the entire group staying at the hut with us had made it up to the top at some point during their visit.

We arrived at the hut in the rain, but within an hour, the skies had cleared, we were dried off, and we'd had our first dinner. We decided to head out to hike up to the summit of the Onion before having a late second dinner. 

The sun came out and we climbed up above the hut to begin hiking towards the Onion

The Onion is located roughly 300 metres above the hut (making for a height gain of 700 metres from the highway.) 

It took us approximately 2 hours round trip to reach the summit, to stop at the ice cave on descent, and to make it back to the hut.

For us, this meant that we did a total of 6 hours of hiking on our first day and had completed the full 700 metres of height gain. For a more relaxing day I recommend spending a second night at the hut and hiking up to the Onion on your rest day.

Fun hiking on rock ribs towards the Onion 

The hike up the Onion is a "route" and there is no official trail. For that reason I suggest you talk with other visitors at the hut before heading out. Anybody at the hut will be able to point you in the correct direction to reach the Onion. 

Tarn, Bow Glacier, and Mt. St. Nicholas en route to the Onion 

Step one for reaching the Onion was to hike up above the hut, heading towards a small glacier tarn, and then making our way up lots of fun scrambly rock ribs on the lower slopes of the Onion past some waterfalls.

The rock was so much fun to scramble and we found these cool pools of water 
Lots of fun scrambling on rock up the Onion
This was some of the most fun scrambling I've done in a long time!
We were always rewarded with views of the Bow Glacier and St. Nicholas in the background (a peak I'm rather partial to after climbing it years ago.) 

And if you pay attention to the Bow Glacier in the photo below, that was our descent route off the Onion rather than scrambling back down the rock. 

Climbing above the Bow Glacier with St. Nicholas in the background 

I don't recommend following our descent option though unless you have significant experience on glaciers, and can determine if this section of the glacier is safe at the time of your visit (when we were there, there was significant snow coverage on the glacier, and it had been well traveled. We were very secure that we wouldn't be falling into any crevasses.) 

Also know that if you are going to descend the glacier, there is an ice cave at the bottom of it. You don't want to fall into the cave (which is full of water.) Make sure you know exactly where the cave is when choosing your descent line.

The views were incredible the higher we got! 

We continued climbing higher until we had the option to get on a snow field below the summit. When faced with snow Vs. rock, we always choose snow as long as it's safe to do so - and this snow was totally safe to be climbing. We were just on snow-covered rock here (not glacier.)

Climbing up the snow field below the summit of the Onion 

It was easy walking up the snow (and we had good boots that kept our feet relatively dry.) Plus, look how incredibly gorgeous this was!! I felt like we were on a mountaineering expedition just hiking up this snow - and now I totally want to go back next summer.

Climbing up a snow field above the Bow Glacier 

Once we reached the edge of the snow field, it was just a plod up rock to the summit where we found a large cairn overlooking Bow Lake.

Ready to start the final climb up rock to the summit 

The Summit of the Onion 


The summit was gorgeous looking down on Bow Lake. We didn't have a lot of time at the top though since we got such a late start, so I definitely want to return next summer. 

Looking down on Bow Lake from the summit of the Onion 
Onion Summit with my boys looking back on the Wapta Icefield 
Summit of the Onion 

Descending the Bow Glacier to the Ice Cave 


We wanted to go visit the ice cave on our way back to the hut, and since it was at the base of the glacier, there was no faster way to reach it than by running straight down the glacier. 

Hiking down the Bow Glacier back to the Bow Hut

We really did run down the glacier! It was so much fun!! 

The glacier was in great shape when we were there for a quick run down and the snow was nice and deep to cover anything up. - and running down this glacier was so much fun!! It was a highlight of our entire summer so far.

My husband loved leading us down the glacier
Approaching the tarns again and the ice cave at the bottom of the glacier

 The Ice Cave at the bottom of the Bow Glacier 


This is a short outing from the hut even if you don't want to go climb the Onion. You don't have to get on the glacier and it's a very short walk above the hut.

And no, you can not explore inside the cave. It's filled with very cold deep water.

We found the ice cave below the Bow Glacier
You don't want to be running down the glacier and suddenly end up falling through into the cave!

Back at the Hut and Hiking out the Next Day 


We got back to the hut, finally had an official dinner, and watched as it continued to "not" rain - the weather forecast totally changed once we arrived at the hut!

It was overcast but dry the whole night at the hut

The next morning it was still sunny and we had a gorgeous hike out! We definitely should have stayed for two nights!

It was a gorgeous morning for our hike out
Hiking down the steep trail from the hut 
Back to the creek crossings 
In this photo you can see the Bow Hut to the left and the rounded summit of the  Onion to the far right 

You can see the rounded summit of the Onion in the photos above and below.

Hiking down below the rounded summit of the Onion 
There is a lot of rock traversing on this hike (wear good hiking boots!)


The creek with the chockstone crossing 

 It only took us 3 hours to hike out and we headed straight to Lake Louise for lunch.

Hiking down the staircase below the junction with the Bow Glacier Falls Trail

Back at Bow Lake 

For more information on this hike or to make a booking for next summer, please visit the Alpine Club of Canada's website. 


Resources and Recommended Reading (other huts we've stayed at)



Family Backcountry Cabin Camping in the Canadian Rockies


 Backcountry Cabin Camping with Kids - Elk Lakes Cabin, BC  


Summer Backpacking Trip to the Asulkan Cabin, Rogers Pass  


Backpacking in the Bugaboos (and our first family glacier traverse) - Conrad Kain Hut 


Backcountry Cabin Camping  with Kids - Stanley Mitchell Hut, BC


Easter at the Wheeler Hut, Rogers Pass


The Easiest Family Winter Backcountry Trip (Wheeler Hut, Rogers Pass)


Winter at the Cameron Lake Cabin, Waterton Lakes National Park 


Easter at the Elizabeth Parker Hut, Lake O'Hara   


Winter Camping with Kids ( No Tent!!) 


Snowy Adventures in Elk Lakes Provincial Park


Raising Tough Kids - Our Annual Winter Backpacking Trip



Thursday, April 25, 2019

A Family Guide to the BEST Adventures on the Icefields Parkway (Lake Louise to Jasper)

The Icefields Parkway is one of the world's most beautiful driving tours, and with a bit of careful planning (and willingness to go for a short hike,) it's actually possible to escape the crowds!

Bow Summit Lookout, Icefields Parkway, Banff National Park

We love exploring and hiking on the Icefields Parkway because once you get a half hour past Lake Louise, the crowds start to thin out a bit, and the scenery is every bit as spectacular! Yes, it's still busy in the middle of summer, but we're talking 50 people at a popular viewpoint instead of 200! (Step into a pair of hiking boots and it's easy to leave the crowds behind completely!)


Quick Intro: Where I'm Sending you to Explore


The Icefields Parkway, Highway 93 North, connects the Village of Lake Louise in Banff National Park with the Town of Jasper in Jasper National Park to the north. 

The parkway is 232 kilometres in distance and without stops you can complete the drive in 2.5 to 3 hours from Lake Louise to Jasper. From Calgary, you can easily drive out to Louise, enjoy a stop or two along the Parkway, and still arrive in Jasper for dinner that night.

Precautionary notes before heading out:
Panther Falls, Icefields Parkway

  • This area sees a very long winter! Expect lingering snow on trails into early to mid July.


  • Bring a pair of gloves, a hat, and layers of clothing including a warm sweater and a jacket any time you travel through this area. It generally won't go above 20 C in the daytime and it can easily drop to 5 degrees Celsius at night (even in the middle of summer.)


  • You can hike to the toe of a glacier on this highway (without climbing!) Again, bring warm clothes and don't rely on a pair of sandals as your footwear of choice while out exploring.


  • There is ONE gas station located between Lake Louise and Jasper, at Saskatchewan River Crossing, and you shouldn't need me to tell you that the gas there is not cheap. Fill up before you start your drive!


  • There is no cell coverage for the entire duration of the drive between Louise and Jasper. Make sure you're prepared before you start out.


  • Services are limited and any food you'll find is expensive. Pack snacks and a lunch for your trip rather than relying on the busy cafeterias at the Saskatchewan River Crossing or at the Columbia Icefields Centre. - Also know that there are only services available in the summer (June - September.) Winter travel on the Parkway is a bigger adventure.


  • The speed limit is 90 Km/hour. Don't speed! Expect to encounter wildlife, hikers crossing the highway, or slow moving vehicles at any time. Chances are you'll be driving well under 90 at times. - And do not get outside your vehicle if you see an animal that you absolutely must take a photo of (or stop in the middle of the road!)


  • A park pass is required to drive this highway (even if you don't stop.) You can purchase a day pass at the gates as you leave either Lake Louise or Jasper if you don't have an annual Discovery Pass. 

Standing on the Athabasca Glacier, Icefields Parkway 

Our Favourite Adventures along the Icefields Parkway 


Below are our favourite adventures along the Icefields Parkway, starting in the south and working north towards Jasper.

This list will grow each year as we discover new things to do, so it won't always be a top ten list. And yes, you should save it for the future since I'll keep adding to it.

Finally, for driving locations, open Google Maps and you should be able to find each destination. There's also a good map here on the Parks Canada website

All links below provide more information on the hike or destination. 

Red Chairs on the Wilcox Pass Trail, Icefields Parkway

1. Hiking to Helen Lake 


We haven't done this hike since our son was a baby and we carried him up to the lake in a child carrier. Time to return! 

The hike is 6 km one way so save the adventure until your children can tackle a 12 km hike with 455 metres of height gain. You'll be rewarded with gorgeous views when you arrive at the lake and hopefully lots of marmots running around in the boulders.

Gorgeous scenery en route to Helen Lake along the Icefields Parkway 

2. Hiking around Bow Lake (with an extension to Bow Glacier Falls)


There's an easy trail around the shoreline of Bow Lake to the back of the lake. Escape the crowds by hiking further to Bow Glacier Falls (4.6 km one way.)

For a paddle-hike adventure, paddle across the lake and then continue on foot to Bow Glacier Falls. (This has been on our list of things to do for years. Hopefully this is the year!)

Bow Lake on the Icefields Parkway 

Want a bigger adventure? Take the kids on an overnight backpacking trip up to the Bow Hut, one of the Alpine Club of Canada huts. The hut can be reached in an 8 km hike from the parking lot at Bow Lake. 

We spent a night at the Bow Hut in 2019. Read about the adventure here: Bow Hut Family Alpine Adventure 

Bow Glacier Falls above Bow Lake 

3. Hiking to the Bow Summit Lookout from Peyto Lake 


Enjoy a beautiful hike to the Peyto Lake Lookout.

Then, leave the crowds behind for the 2.9 km one way hike to the Bow Summit Lookout (where you'll get views of Bow Lake.)

And there are usually lots of marmots on this trail as an added bonus for the kids.

2021 UPDATE:  This area has been closed as of August 2019 for repairs to the parking lot. It will not open for the 2021 season. 

Hiking to the Bow Summit Lookout with views of Peyto Lake below 

4. Hiking to the bottom of Panther Falls at the Big Bend 


Between Saskatchewan River Crossing and the Columbia Icefields Centre you will drive up a big hill and around the "big bend" hairpin turn. There are two parking lots on the Big Bend, each provided for tourists to pull over and take photos. Pull over into the uppermost parking lot at the top of the Big Bend.

Escape the crowds in the parking lot by hiking down the signed trail (far right side of the parking lot) to the bottom of Panther Falls in an easy 0.5 km outing. (Just warn the kids in advance that they will be hiking down to the falls and that they'll have to climb back up after.)

Panther Falls, Icefields Parkway 

5. Hiking Parker Ridge to the Saskatchewan Glacier Viewpoint 


This is an easy hike and was one of my son's first big solo hikes without the child carrier. The Parker Ridge Hike is only 2.7 km one way and you'll gain 250 metres on the well switch-backed trail.

From the top of the ridge enjoy views of the Saskatchewan Glacier and off-trail rambling in either direction. If you're fortunate enough to be staying at the HI Hilda Creek Wilderness Hostel, you can follow the ridge all the way towards the Hilda Glacier and descend a creek down to the hostel in a beautiful day trip.

Read More about our adventures here:


Hiking along Parker Ridge, Icefields Parkway 

6. Visiting the Columbia Icefields Centre and walking on the Athabasca Glacier 


We've visited the Columbia Icefields Centre many times and you can read all about our adventures in the following stories:






Standing on the Athabasca Glacier, Columbia Icefields Adventure 

Read more about tours offered here including the Icefield Glacier Adventure where you ride a snow coach out onto the glacier, and the Skywalk, a cliff-edged glass sidewalk and observation platform with fantastic views! 

Glacier Skywalk and Observation Platform with Mount Athabasca in the background 

And for those who'd rather hike across the glacier rather than riding a bus, check out the tours offered by the Athabasca Glacier Icewalks company. The full day tour takes you to the far end of the glacier and the base of the icefalls (much further than you'll go on the snowcoach bus tour.)

Take a guided tour on the Athabasca Glacier

7. Hiking the Wilcox Pass Trail in Jasper National Park


Reach the Columbia Icefields Centre and you're officially in Jasper National Park now.

Wilcox Pass is one of our favourite hikes along the Icefields Parkway for easy access to great views. It's only 2.4 km return if you want to reach the first viewpoint, which is ideal if you're traveling to Jasper and need a rest stop to stretch the legs (and let the kids burn off some energy.)

If you have more time and energy, you can hike all the way to the pass in an 8 km return hike. Elevation gain is only 390 metres as well so this is not a challenging hike.

Views from the Wilcox Pass Hike, Jasper National Park 

8. Visiting Sunwapta and Athabasca Falls 


Next up on the drive north to Jasper, you'll pass the day use areas for Sunwapta Falls and Athabasca Falls. If you only have time for one, stop at Athabasca Falls. If you have time for both, they are short walks and mostly a good excuse to get out of the car to stretch the legs. (Though Athabasca Falls are pretty spectacular.)

Prepare to be overwhelmed by tourists at both spots as they are very popular with tourist busses.

Athabasca Falls, Jasper National Park 


9. Jasper Sky Tram and Hiking to the top of Whistlers Summit


This one is not cheap, but it's 100% worth the expense! From the upper station of the sky tram, the summit is only 200 metres above you and the views are phenomenal as you leisurely hike through the alpine environment for 1.2 km (one way,) on the lookout for marmots.

I'll never get tired of this hike, and you'll leave two thirds of the crowds behind as soon as you start hiking towards the summit.

Read more about the Jasper Sky Tram here

Hiking through alpine meadows en route to the Whistlers Summit off the Jasper Sky Tram

And now that you've officially arrived in the Town of Jasper, you'll want to check out these stories below:

Our Top Ten Favourite Things to do in Jasper 

Where to Camp in the National Parks of Alberta 

Viewpoint above the Jasper Sky Tram on the hike to Whistlers Summit

Need accommodations and don't want to camp? Check out the accommodations offered by Hosteling International Canada. HI Canada operates and maintains many wilderness hostels across the Rockies, 5 of which are located along the Icefields Parkway!

HI Hilda Creek Wilderness Hostel on the Icefields Parkway 

Below are wilderness hostels located on the Icefields Parkway (links go to the website or to a story I've written on that hostel:)

The hostels are in order as you'd pass them from south to north.

HI Mosquito Creek Wilderness Hostel

HI Rampart Creek Wilderness Hostel

HI Hilda Creek Wilderness Hostel

HI Beauty Creek Wilderness Hostel

HI Edith Cavell Wilderness Hostel