Family Adventures in the Canadian Rockies

Tuesday, July 14, 2015

First Summits - Nihahi Ridge, Kananaskis

We're slowly adding to our list of successful first summits as a family and they just keep getting bigger! Last month we added the Nihahi Ridge hike to our victory list and we managed to make it 95% of the way to the south summit. We turned around when the ridge became a bit too exposed for our comfort with a possible storm looming in the near future. Next time we'll go a bit further and we'll just keep lengthening the ridge walk each time we go.

Nihahi Ridge, Kananaskis

The Hike

The first part of the trip was purely a cute little hike, easy, and gradual with no steep climbs. No surprise though, this was Noah's least favourite part and he was wishing for a chair lift to carry him to the alpine! The part through the trees was the hardest part of the whole outing for us and we just had to push through until we reached the meadow and steeper slopes above.

Hiking the Nihahi Ridge Trail

The hike starts from the Little Elbow Campground in the Elbow Valley past Bragg Creek. The trailhead is at the far end of the campground, where unfortunately there is no parking. If you are not camped near the trailhead, drop the kids and an adult off at the trailhead and go back to park the car. This is what we did and it saved Noah 1.5km of hiking. Dad just got a little more exercise.

Nearing the end of the official Nihahi Ridge hiking trail

A full trail description of the first 2.5km can be found on the Alberta Parks website with information on the trailhead and camping at Little Elbow (which we'll do next time.)

The official hiking trail is 5km round trip and leads to a scenic viewpoint well below the ridge top. Climbing up to the ridge is considered a "scramble" with hands on moments, easy rock climbing, and some exposure as you go further along.

This is where "hikers" will turn around below the ridge top

The Scramble to the Ridge Top

While the hike was scenic, we didn't set out to do a hike. We were out to reach a summit and to get as far along the ridge as possible. We knew we wouldn't reach the official South Summit with a 6 year old, but we were curious to see how far we could get! Turns out we got pretty far!!

Narrow hiking en route to the ridge top

Scrambling to the ridge

It's relatively easy hiking as you approach the ridge but the trail signs stop at the end of the official view point and route finding is required from here onward. It's recommended that if you want to do this scramble, you pick up a guide book and read the route carefully before going. I recommend Gillean Daffern's Popular Day Hikes in Kananaskis.

To gain the ridge crest, you will have to do some hands on scrambling as shown in the photo at right. Most adults (and older school aged children) should be capable of the short little climb but families with younger children might feel more comfortable with a short section of rope.

My husband put Noah on belay for the scramble up to the ridge to protect against a dangerous fall that could result in broken bones. We also put a helmet on Noah just in case he slipped and bumped his head. (in general, it's good practice to bring helmets if you are bringing rope!!)

A fall on this section would likely not be fatal, but it's still important to take this cliff band seriously and if you feel at all uneasy about it, this is the point to turn around and rejoice with how far you came safely. The photos below show how steep the drop is below the cliff.

Climbing up to the ridge top on Nihahi Ridge

A good shot to show why you might want a rope!

Hiking on Nihahi Ridge

Once you finish with the short crux section above, things mellow out and it's pleasant hiking along the ridge. From here, you can choose how far you want to go based on your experience with route finding and scrambling, your comfort level with exposure, and the age of your children.

Hiking up to the first summit on the ridge

Rest break on the first summit of Nihahi Ridge

We took a nice break at the first summit. You'll know you're here when it actually looks like a summit and you start to feel like you should hold on to your children closely. The ridge starts to feel airy at this point and the views are amazing.

The First Summit on Nihahi Ridge

How far should we go...

We pushed it a bit further than this with dreams of reaching the official south summit but the ridge got very scrambly, exposed, and narrow. There was also a storm looming in the near future and we were scared of getting caught on a narrow ridge with no means of quick retreat.

Please, can we go further??

Ok, a little further...

Turning around before the final traverse to the South Summit

Next time we are reaching that South Summit!!

The Descent

No surprise, the descent was a lot faster than the ascent! In total, we would have climbed approximately 700 vertical metres (about 50 vertical metres short of the south summit) and hiked at least 10km round trip.

The view as you make your way off the ridge

Down climbing the cliff band off the ridge

We managed to avoid the storm and our round trip hiking time was approximately 4 hours. Noah promptly passed out in the car and had to be woken for his ice cream in Bragg Creek.

Scrambling on Nihahi Ridge

Off the ridge and back in the meadow

Overall Recommendation

Great family hike with beautiful scenery and a gradual start that allows you to go as far as you want and then turn around when things get too crazy. The meadow is a great spot for a picnic and if you only get this far, it is a pleasant 4km round trip hike at most from the edge of the campground.

Updates

In 2016 we went on to finish the climb to the South Summit. Read about that adventure here: Family Hiking at the Next Level: Scrambles and Summits

Monday, July 13, 2015

5 Great Campgrounds for Active Families in Southern Alberta

Finding a great campground often comes down to your camping style. Do you go camping primarily to relax or do you search for a campground that serves as an adventure base camp?

Families wanting to chill and take it easy while camping will definitely want to look for campgrounds with lakes, beaches, and quiet walking paths. Active families on the go will also enjoy swimming and paddling in a refreshing mountain lake but might want to seek out campgrounds that feature a great trail network for biking and hiking as well.

Biking on the Tunnel Bench Loop in Banff

Tunnel Mountain Village I, Banff National Park

Located on the Tunnel Bench above the town of Banff, Tunnel Mountain Village 1 is a great campground for biking and hiking right out the door of your tent. You can set up camp and never have to get in your vehicle again from this campground.

Mountain bike trails are plentiful around the campground as are beautiful hiking trails from the hoodoos of Banff down to Bow Falls on the Bow River.

Want to visit the Banff hot springs or head downtown for dinner? The Roam bus stops right by the campground providing easy access to the many attractions of Banff.

Tunnel Mountain Village I is a natural campground for tenters and campers with small trailers not requiring full service or power. It is a lovely place to camp with trees surrounding most sites, central showers, wash stations for doing dishes, and fire pits at many of the sites. Families wanting power for larger trailers and RVs can camp at Tunnel Mountain Village II or in the trailer court located next door.

Tent to Trail Camping in Banff National Park

Mountain biking on the Tunnel Bench Loop in Banff

The Campgrounds of Peter Lougheed Provincial Park, Kananaskis

The Boulton Creek and Elkwood Campgrounds are very popular with families and both accept reservations in advance for stress-free camping.

Both campgrounds are located on a paved section of the High Rockies Trail that connects 6 campgrounds in the park. Riding downhill from Boulton Creek to Canyon is our favourite thing to do along with visiting the Boulton Creek Trading Post for an afternoon ice-cream cone.

Families preferring to hike will find multiple easy hiking trails in the park to choose from and water lovers can spend the day canoeing on either Upper or Lower Kananaskis Lake. Canoes and kayaks can also be rented beside the Boulton Creek Trading Post.

There is no bad campground in this park but Boulton Creek and Elkwood are the only two that accept reservations and that offer serviced sites for those wanting power and water for their trailer. (Lower Lake also accepts reservations but has only unserviced sites.)

Our personal favourite campground is Canyon because of the sunny meadow surrounding the playground. Final options are the Mt. Sarrail walk-in tent campground and the small Interlakes Campground located on a peninsula between the Upper and Lower Lake.

The scenery is stunning everywhere you go in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Peter Lougheed Provincial Park for Families

The Best Place to Bike and Camp in Kananaskis (Peter Lougheed Provincial Park)

Our 5 Favourite Campgrounds (within a 3 hour drive of Calgary)

Biking on the paved trail through Peter Lougheed Provincial Park

Beauvais Lake Provincial Park Campground

We really liked the Beauvais Lake Campground in Southern Alberta near Pincher Creek. Take a boat out on the beautiful calm lake, bike over to the lakeside playground, or bike around the lake on one of the many trails located in the provincial park.

You can also go for a walk on one of the many trails through the park (ski trails in the winter, so they are nice and wide for families pushing a Chariot or outdoor stroller.)

We took a day trip while camping here to nearby Beaver Mines Lake where we hiked to the summit of Table Mountain.

You can also take day trips to nearby Castle Provincial Park or to Waterton Lakes National Park.

The crowsnest Pass is nearby too if you want to check out the Frank Slide.

There's no shortage of day trips available from this park - or just stay put and explore the local trails and the lake.

Biking around Beauvais Lake

Three New Alberta Parks Campgrounds to Visit

First Summits - Table Mountain, Beaver Mines Lake

Paddling on Beauvais Lake

The Campgrounds of Cypress Hills Provincial Park

Cypress Hills Provincial Park is Located on Elkwater Lake in Southern Alberta. This provincial park has everything from a gorgeous sandy beach to paved walking and biking paths, hiking and mountain bike trails aplenty, mini golf, and a great interpretive centre.

A typical afternoon at camp could be spent walking or biking the paved lakeshore trail, looking for birds on the boardwalks, stopping at the three lakeside playgrounds, playing a round of free mini golf (donations accepted,) going to the ice-cream shop, and then ending at the beach to play. A family could camp here for a week and never run out of activities to do.

Biking on the easy lakeside trail between playgrounds

Camp in any of the campgrounds near the lake and you’ll find easy access to the beach and town via the fabulous trail network. My top pick for campground is the main Elkwater Campground with its big open meadow and playground. Try to get sites around the meadow and the kids will be able to play while you supervise from your site.

Read more:

Our New Favourite Alberta Camping Destination

Hiking on one of the many trails in Cypress Hills Provincial Park

Alberta Badlands Camping (Dinosaur and Writing on Stone Provincial Parks)

I couldn't decide which park I liked best, so I'm lumping them together - because they are both awesome for active families!!

Best of all, the campground at Dinosaur Provincial Park and the campground at Writing on Stone Provincial Park are both base camp type campgrounds where you don't ever have to get in your car. There are so many trails accessible from each campground you can stay right where you are the entire time.

Hiking in Dinosaur Provincial Park

Similarities between the two campgrounds:

Camping in the Alberta badlands with hoodoos, sandstone cliffs, coulees, and fun rocks to scramble around on.
Great interpretive programs from fossil digs to rock art tours
Both have a gentle river you can float if you have boats and want to set up a shuttle
Both have fabulous hiking trails right from the campground through the badlands scenery

Main differences:

You'll find an actual beach at Writing on Stone on the Milk River. You can even float from one end of the campground to the far end using pool noodles or tubes. - super fun on a hot day.
If you like biking, Dinosaur is the place to go because you can bike around the public loop road stopping at interpretive trails and fossil displays as you go. There is no biking in Writing on Stone park.

Hiking in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Camping in Dinosaur Provincial Park

Hiking in Dinosaur Provincial Park

Wild about Dinosaur Provincial Park

Camping in the Alberta Badlands

Fossil Hunting in Dinosaur Provincial Park

Campsite to River! Camping and Floating across Southern Alberta

Camping in Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Find us in the River - Camp Life at Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Floating down the Milk River through Writing on Stone Provincial Park

Monday, July 06, 2015

DIY Summer Camp on a Budget

Summer camp is full of new experiences, outings and activities that will leave a lasting impression on your children well into next year’s school calendar. What do you do, though, if you can’t quite cough up the money for a week at camp? Or, if you’re like me, you’re a stay-at-home parent and think just maybe you could create your own ‘week at camp’ with other families and friends. Read on for my top five suggestions for things to do with the kids this summer as you seek to entertain the troops until school starts back up again.

DIY Summer Camp - Take a Hike at Big Hill Springs

DIY Summer Camp - Try Geocaching

Suggestion number one: Introduce your children to geocaching in Calgary’s parks and natural areas. There are several geocaching apps for the iPhone and android phones. I personally like the Groundspeak Inc. app, which syncs with your geocaching account created through geocaching.com.

Getting started is very easy once you create an account and each cache you find is stored on your mobile app to help you keep track of your history. Once you have an account and a mobile app, head out to the nearest natural area or park and, guaranteed, there will be a handful of geocaches to find nearby.

Start with the easy ones that are larger and work your way down in size as you get more experienced. And don’t forget to bring along small treasures or toys to leave in each cache if you want to trade for something that you’ll find inside.

My next four suggestions are all covered in my newest story for Calgary's Child Magazine including my top five favourite parks and natural areas to explore in Calgary.

To read the full story, follow this link to DIY ‘Summer Camp’ on a Budget - Try a Walk on the Wild Side in Calgary this Summer!

DIY Summer Camp - Find a new favourite park or natural area to explore

Friday, June 26, 2015

Family Bike Adventures in the Spray Valley

Want to get off the beaten path in the Canadian Rockies? The Spray Valley beyond the popular mountain town of Canmore beckons families to come explore - without the crowds. Love biking? Even better because chances are high you'll have many trails all to yourself. (and no, you don't have to be terrified of bears out there alone as long as you make a lot of noise and bike in a group.)

Backcountry Mountain Biking in the Spray Valley

Introduction to the Spray Valley

Spray Valley Provincial Park is located along the Spray River and near the Spray Lakes Reservoir off of Highway 742 out of Canmore. The provincial park also stretches to Highway 40 near the Wedge Pond day use area but I am going to focus purely on the area off of the Smith Dorrien Trail (Highway 742) in this story.

Scenery off the Smith Dorrien Trail

Bike Trails in the Spray Valley

There are only a handful of bike trails in this valley but that just means you don't have to debate over which trail to do. Plan a long weekend to the valley and conquer all of the bike trails in one shot. They are all family-friendly and doable by children on 16-20" bikes. We've even had our son out here biking to Watridge Lake on his balance bike back when he was just 4 years old.

Biking to Watridge Lake in the Spray Valley

What I love most about the bike trails in this valley is the remoteness and the feeling of solitude you'll get as you ride way into the backcountry on well maintained trails and old roads perfect for young riders not up for the challenges of single track riding.

Backcountry riding in the Spray Valley to Watridge Lake

Biking Mount Shark to Watridge Lake

The Watridge Lake trail is an 8km bike ride (round trip distance) that we try to do once a year. The trail starts from the Mount Shark Day Use area and follows an old logging road that is very family-friendly. Our son has been doing the ride since he was 4 years old and we've just walked the occasional steep hill we come across. Most of the trip is pretty gradual though without huge amounts of height gain or loss.

Biking the Watridge Lake Trail from Mount Shark

At the 3.9km mark, you'll reach a sign for Watridge Lake. Here is where we leave our bikes and walk down a steep hill to reach the lake. From the lake, you can hike an additional 0.8km (one way) up to Karst Spring which is highly recommended during run off season when water is high.

Watridge Lake, Spray Valley

There are no technical challenges on this outing and it is Chariot-friendly for the entire distance. Children on balance bikes will also have few problems on this gradual trail.

My son made it all the way to Watridge Lake and back on his balance bike at the age of 4

Biking The Goat Creek Trail from the Spray Valley to Banff

The Goat Creek Trail starts from the Goat Creek Day Use Area just outside of Canmore and is a 19 km one way ride from the Spray Valley to the Banff townsite. Strong riders can bike the full return distance in 3-4 hours but it will take families the same amount of time to ride one way to Banff.

Canmore to Banff on the Goat Creek Trail

While many people set up a car shuttle, leaving a second vehicle at Bow Falls in Banff, we chose to make things simple on ourselves since we were staying in the Spray Valley overnight. My son and I biked one-way into Banff while Dad turned around at the final bridge and headed back for the truck. Yay Dad! He then came into Banff to pick us up and we tried to keep it a secret that we'd been eating ice-cream while he was biking back uphill to fetch the vehicle.

The Goat Creek Bridge en route to Banff

What to expect on this trail:

Double track riding on gravel and dirt
Some loose rocks and a few hills that are quite challenging with big rocks you must dodge. The hill down to the first big bridge is the worst and should probably be walked by young children. We rode it but it was a bit scary. (it has a sign at the top of it warning people to take caution.)
Downhill riding with 435m of height loss spread out over 19km in the Canmore to Banff direction
A few significant hills in the up direction with 176m of height gain (something we weren't prepared for - and why kids really should have gears for this ride)
Remote backcountry riding (make sure you have spare tubes and a bike repair kit)

Lots of cool bridges to cross on the Goat Creek Trail

Exploring the Trails near the Spray Lakes West Campground

If you're looking for a sense of remoteness, this is the place for you to go biking! You likely won't see a single other person on your ride and you might even come across a moose if you're lucky.

There are two main trails that start from the Spray Lakes West Campground (which is great if you're camping here.) First, you can follow the West Side Lake Trail which is a gravel road connecting the campground with the Mt. Shark trail system near Watridge Lake. The West Side Lake Trail follows the Spray Lakes Reservoir all the way to the far end at Canyon dam. The trail is 10.8km one way and is typically done as an out and back trip. It is relatively flat and easy for family-riding.

This will be your backdrop as you bike around the Spray Lakes Reservoir on the West Side Lake Trail

For information on how to connect the West Side Lake Trail with the Mount Shark trails, pick up a copy of Doug Eastcott's book, Backcountry Biking in the Canadian Rockies. Families will likely just want to ride the West Side Lake Trail out for about 5km, and then return the same way for a shorter day.

Remote riding near the Spray Lakes West Campground

We haven't tried the West Side Lake Trail yet, but the trail we did bike (and thoroughly enjoyed) was the Goat Pond Canal trail which connects the Spray Lakes Reservoir with Goat Pond further up the Smith Dorrien Trail towards Canmore. This was a lovely family ride, relatively flat and easy going on a gravel maintenance road.

This trail won't show up on maps and I challenge you to find any information on the trail in a Google search. However, if you go to the Spray Lakes West Campground, you can't miss the trail. The trail starts right below the dam at the campground and follows the gravel road beside the canal on the other side of the Smith Dorrien Trail. You'll be paralleling the highway (hidden by a forest of trees) the whole time and you'll end up within sight of Goat Pond. (we hiked a bit further to explore the pond and marsh area once our trail had ended.)

Easy riding on the Goat Pond Canal from the Spray Lakes West Campground

Where to Stay in the Spray Valley

If you're looking for budget accommodations, you'll probably want to stay at the Spray Lakes West Campground mentioned in the previous paragraphs. However, if you have the means to splurge for a weekend, you definitely want to upgrade your digs and stay at Mount Engadine Lodge near Mount Shark. Not only will you be within a short bike ride's distance from the Watridge Lake trailhead but you'll also get an unparalleled stay in one of the finest lodges of the Canadian Rockies.

Mount Engadine Lodge

What you can expect from a stay at Mount Engadine Lodge:

Gourmet breakfasts and dinners served family style while dining with other guests from countries around the world
Packed lunches for your day's adventures (and you won't have to lift a finger to pack your own lunch.)
Afternoon tea served daily in the sunny dining room as you scan the meadow for wildlife sightings (look carefully and you might see moose, bears, deer, or elk while you sip on your cup of tea.)

Afternoon tea at Mount Engadine Lodge

Individual bedrooms with private bathrooms and showers that rival anything you'd find at a luxury hotel in Canmore (This is no hostel or backcountry cabin.)
Cabins and suites for those traveling with children or pets
Opportunities to mingle with local and international guests as you swap travel stories and make notes for future trips you're going to want to take next year
A perfect blend of comfort and luxury. Come here for a romantic weekend getaway or bring the kids and they'll feel right at home too.

The meadow outside the lodge is a natural playground for the kids

We've stayed here a few times now and every visit is a special treat leaving us begging to come back for more. Winter or Summer, Mount Engadine Lodge never disappoints and it gets my vote for "best place to go glamping with the kids in Kananaskis." - pretty sure I might have actually said I never wanted to camp again after staying at Mount Engadine a few weeks ago.

Private Cabin in Paradise Anybody??

Tuesday, June 23, 2015

Easy Overnight Paddling Trips for the Whole Family

A few years ago we did our first overnight paddling trip as a family and I learned a couple of valuable lessons: One, you don’t have to actually carry your gear to get into the backcountry if you use a boat, and Two, you don’t have to carry small children either!

Canoeing or kayaking into a backcountry campground is by far one of the easiest ways to access beautiful wilderness locations as a family. No backpacks, no child carriers, no strollers – and you can do the trip in sandals!

Overnight paddling trips give you access to great campsites like this at the Point on Upper Kananaskis Lake

What kind of boat should you take?

Canoes and kayaks both work very well for overnight paddling trips and I’ve even used my stand up paddle board to get to camp while our kayak carried the family gear. Tandem recreational kayaks work especially well and you can even fit a couple of lawn chairs in the middle of them. We’ve also seen friends pull a second boat with their gear so that they could bring everything they’d normally bring for car camping. (Just make sure you don’t try this technique on a river and that it’s an easy short paddle to camp!)

Backpacking with our tandem recreational kayak

If choosing to canoe (and you won’t be doing any long portages), try to rent a large tripping canoe, 16-18 feet long, and you’ll have plenty of room for a couple of children and your gear in the middle. Otherwise, rent one or two two tandem recreational kayaks for a family of four and you’ll have plenty of space for gear.

Most people canoe to camp. I use a stand up paddleboard.

How to pack for an overnight paddling trip

If you’re going to be doing a lot of overnight paddling trips, you can invest in gear barrels and dry bags but for the occasional trip, heavy-duty garbage bags will work just fine to keep your sleeping bags, tent, and other gear dry and safe. One dry bag is recommended though at least for your keys, wallet, phone, and other vital accessories that absolutely cannot get wet.

If you expect to be walking any distance at all from the shore to your campsite, it is recommended that you pack in the same way as you would for a backpacking trip. Put all of your gear in packs wrapped with a couple of heavy-duty garbage bags. That way, you can easily shuttle your gear to your campsite.

And if you’re going to be on a river, don’t forget to tie down your gear into a canoe in case you should tip!

This method of shuttling gear will work on a calm lake for short distances

Where to camp

The Point Backcountry Campground in Kananaskis is an ideal spot for a first overnight paddling trip with the kids. In good conditions without a strong wind, you can make it across Upper Kananaskis Lake in under an hour. Start early in the day when the lake is always calmest and plan to do day tours on the lake once you’ve set up camp.

If you are nervous about taking small children in a boat, you can also hike to camp with the kids while a couple of adults paddle the gear in. It’s a short 3.4 km hike via the Upper Kananaskis Lake Circuit from the North Interlakes day use area.

Disclaimer: as of 2021 there are no more firepits in backcountry campgrounds in Peter Lougheed Provincial Park. The gathering of wood to build a fire is also prohibited (and you can not bring your own wood in by boat.)

Paddling on Upper Kananaskis Lake to the Point

Other Water-accessible Campgrounds near Calgary:

Jewell Bay Campground on Barrier Lake, Kananaskis – A short 20 minute paddle or an easy 4km hike takes you to a small backcountry campground on Barrier Lake.

Scenic campsites on Barrier Lake at Jewell Bay

LM8 on Lake Minnewanka, Banff – This backcountry campground is accessed by an easy 8km hiking trail or a paddle along the shores of beautiful Lake Minnewanka. Note that winds can pick up on this large lake so early starts are of importance when water is calmer. There are also wildlife restrictions in place at certain times of the year so visit the Banff National Park website for more information.

Paddling on Lake Minnewanka

Steveville Campground on the Red Deer River, Southern Alberta – An easy two day paddle spread out over 30km will take you from Emerson Bridge to Dinosaur Provincial Park with a night at the Steveville Campground. You’ll paddle through the Dinosaur Park badlands and you can extend your trip with a night or two at the Dinosaur Provincial Park Campground to enjoy hiking in the area. The Steveville Campground is road accessible as well if you need an early escape off the river.

Easy paddling on the Red Deer River with inflatable and recreational kayaks

Reservations are required at most campgrounds so check in advance before planning your trip. Also, it is advised to talk with staff in local parks when choosing the best time of year to paddle with your family. Rivers can range from easy class I float trips to class II trips with big rapids depending on the time of year.